Created by: | Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
| Sep 25, 2023 10:10AM | Gnerffed | Edited: Sep 25, 2023 12:05PM |
Posted:
Sep 25, 2023
10:10AM
Edited:
Sep 25, 2023
12:05PM
|
Total posts: 0
Last post: Member since:Oct 24, 2022
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Hi,
I have 2010 R55s with an N14 turbo (stop laughing in the back!). She’s aged, but only has 36k miles. Reason for the post, CRANKS, but NO START, not even a sputter.
No previous symptoms, except some fault codes and low oil pressure at idle (which I was starting to tackle). FRM trouble codes:
Key to note these codes existed before the no-start and she’s gone 6k miles with them. I’ve been working through other issues. Not a starting issue until now (after sitting for a four-day weekend).
What I think I know so far:
At the coils connectors I can see a good ground, about 11.4-V supply (cranking), and I see this from the ECU transistors:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/H67J5wsUGfq3oCLy6
So, referenced to chassis gnd. (hence the noisy sig.?), 11.4-V on the power pin (cyan), the pull down & spark from the ECU (yellow).
From YouTube watching I suppose this also means the cam. & crank angle sensors, as well as fuse #10 (the 15A, in the under-hood panel) and relay K6326 (one of the small, black Tyco's nearby fuse #10) are likely ok too. Checked DME connector (first from the front, pin 1, aka "X60004") it has battery positive voltage too.
Fuel observations:
I thought the HPFP was mechanical, and am not clear on what its connector does.
I do not have a fuel pressure measurement system that’ll fit anywhere on this car—which sucks. Pop-off the LPFP feed to the HPFP and let it squirt into a receptacle? Pull an injector and do the same? Remember, it’s not even sputtering—'hard to see it being one injector.
I read about an “emergency mode,” wherein the system will still try to push pressure if there are problems like a fuel pressure sensor failure?
Or are the earlier codes likely to be an issue (now, after 6k miles of driving)?
I’d really like some help ladies & gents,
-Jeffrey B.
I have 2010 R55s with an N14 turbo (stop laughing in the back!). She’s aged, but only has 36k miles. Reason for the post, CRANKS, but NO START, not even a sputter.
No previous symptoms, except some fault codes and low oil pressure at idle (which I was starting to tackle). FRM trouble codes:
-
- Term. 30A faulty (9CA9)
- Battery exhausted (9CB5)
- Short-circuit fault (9CBB)
- K-CAN line fault (E584, which sounds bad).
- I have intermittent codes for misfire and from the JBE, but none now.
Key to note these codes existed before the no-start and she’s gone 6k miles with them. I’ve been working through other issues. Not a starting issue until now (after sitting for a four-day weekend).
What I think I know so far:
- Newer battery. Passes tests (in/out of car) and is on an automatic charger.
- Sitting, 13.7-VDC, cranking 12.4-VDC.
- Ground lead is aftermarket, I don’t know if I’m meant to have IBS.
- No “spare” potential IBS connector is evident but have registered the batt. as new in any case.
- New coils & plugs (all 4) last winter. Had a misfire, this helped eliminate it (mostly).
At the coils connectors I can see a good ground, about 11.4-V supply (cranking), and I see this from the ECU transistors:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/H67J5wsUGfq3oCLy6
So, referenced to chassis gnd. (hence the noisy sig.?), 11.4-V on the power pin (cyan), the pull down & spark from the ECU (yellow).
From YouTube watching I suppose this also means the cam. & crank angle sensors, as well as fuse #10 (the 15A, in the under-hood panel) and relay K6326 (one of the small, black Tyco's nearby fuse #10) are likely ok too. Checked DME connector (first from the front, pin 1, aka "X60004") it has battery positive voltage too.
Fuel observations:
-
- LPFP power, it’s 11.5-V whilst cranking.
- Filter looks ok, ordering one today in any case today.
- HPFP looks original, it doesn’t appear to have been in the recall...
I thought the HPFP was mechanical, and am not clear on what its connector does.
I do not have a fuel pressure measurement system that’ll fit anywhere on this car—which sucks. Pop-off the LPFP feed to the HPFP and let it squirt into a receptacle? Pull an injector and do the same? Remember, it’s not even sputtering—'hard to see it being one injector.
I read about an “emergency mode,” wherein the system will still try to push pressure if there are problems like a fuel pressure sensor failure?
Or are the earlier codes likely to be an issue (now, after 6k miles of driving)?
I’d really like some help ladies & gents,
-Jeffrey B.
