× 1-800-946-2642 Home My Account Social / Forum Articles Contact My Cart
Shop Now
Select Your Car Type Sale Items Clearance Items New Items
 

 R53 Clutch issues

 Created by: TreyKC
   Forum Width:     Forum Type: 

 Posted: Aug 31, 2023 03:51PM
Total posts: 9547
Last post: Apr 26, 2024
Member since:Aug 14, 2002
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by TreyKC
Thanks for the reply!


I suppose fixing that could have amplified a different issue then?
It is a well known automotive phenomenon that if you replace a part, other parts become cranky and need repair or replacement.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Aug 31, 2023 09:21AM
Total posts: 2
Last post: Aug 31, 2023
Member since:Aug 29, 2023
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Thanks for the reply!

So, it sounds like this could be pointing to a new clutch in the worst case and a new master cylinder in the best one. This is what I had feared might be the case.

Replacing the slave cylinder has unfortunately made the car undriveable now... wish I could go back to the way it was so I could at least limp along for a bit longer.

I suppose fixing that could have amplified a different issue then?

 Posted: Aug 31, 2023 05:22AM
Total posts: 9547
Last post: Apr 26, 2024
Member since:Aug 14, 2002
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
CA
I'm not familiar with new MINIS, but can offer some ideas that generally relate to clutch problems.

1. Worn linkage between the slave cylinder and the throw out bearing. As wear progresses, the slave cylinder would take up the slack, leaving little travel left to disengage the clutch.

2. Worn clutch plate, resulting in excessive play and low release point on the clutch pedal. Eventually loss of proper release.

3. Clutch plate sticking on the splined shaft coming out of the engine.This could be due to insufficient tolerance (seems worse when drive-train is cold, as in winter and improves when warmed up) , a dirty or rusted splined shaft or clutch plate splines. The result is that the clutch plate remains tight to the flywheel despite the pressure plate being pulled away.

4. A worn master cylinder not providing full travel to the slave cylinder. It may be leaking past the piston cups (seals) and not actually leaking out.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Aug 29, 2023 04:52PM
Total posts: 2
Last post: Aug 31, 2023
Member since:Aug 29, 2023
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Hello all -

I recently purchased a 2004 R53 and it was rough changing gears. I had to push all the way to the floor to have the best chance of shifting smoothly, but I'd often have to really force the shifter to have it go into gear.

After doing my research, everything pointed to the slave cylinder, so I thought I'd give it a go... all of the YouTube videos looked simple enough, right? My first few attempts were not pretty with the fluid line popping off, spongy pedal, etc. I finally got to the point where I started over with what I had learned and was quite certain I had everything perfectly bled. I had the cylinder compressed, moving it around, tapping with a wrench during the bleeding process as I went through quite a bit of fluid on several rounds, making sure the master cylinder didn't get too low. Clutch pedal feels tight, so I'm good to go.

I start the car with the clutch pressed all the way in 1st gear and it wants to buck. If I yank it out of gear, I can't get it back in. I thought maybe I jacked up the new slave cylinder with all of the attempts I made, so I ordered a new one and installed it. Same issue, so I tried to compress the cylinder again, in place, and bleed it again... no bubbles, still a tight clutch. No luck, same issue.

I'm at my whits end. Does anyone have any suggestions? Do I need to somehow adjust the clutch pedal since it was engaging so low to the floor initially? I have no leaking from the master cylinder, so I feel ok about it, but should I?

Thanks!