Problem Solved- 
When I rebuilt the engine, I used the FelPro rebuild gasket set.  I used permatex ultra black around the outside edge of the front main seal when installed it.  Easy and clean, I had the engine on the engine stand. 
Trial and Error--
1st attempt - I used a victor replacement main seal - did not think I needed to use the permatex around the perimeter, re-seated the seal.  Started leaking, but I really couldn't tell if it was the mating surface of the crank hub or the seal pocket/block connection.  
2nd attempt - I used an OEM BMW main seal.  started leaking again.  drove it for 30- miles, started to smell oil, all over the underside and spray on the rear hatch - worse than the Victor seal.  
3rd attempt - Ordered a FelPro seal, this time I used permatex on the perimeter of the seal and installed it.  let it set, basically was so sick and tired of messing with it, it sat for a week.  Drove it yesterday and last night.  no leaking, none at all... 
-I cannot say if the permatex would have been the cure with the first replacement using the Victor seal, but it sure leaked worse with the OEM BMW seal and it went in really easy, I presssed it in with my fingers...  The FelPro seal had more resistance than the others pressing into the crankcase, I doubt it was because I used the PermaTex Ultra Black sealant on its perimeter.  

In between all of this, I did a compression check, all cylinders were within a few pounds of 160PSI (+ or -).  I purchased a Differential Manometer Diagnostic Tool and modified an extra oil filler cap to confirm that the crank case was in negative pressure.  It was almost perfect to spec. This confirmed that the PCV system was working correctly.  So, I kept my focus on trying to fix the leak at the main seal.   

I hope this may help someone else with the same issue.  

crankcase ventilation is a factor no matter what year/type car.

Ask me how I know - old Volvo wagon blew oil out of seals when ventilation system plugged up. Dealer wanted to replace all seal$ of whole engine. I took my chances and never had a problem again.

Sorry - I goofed up by not identifying the car.  It's a 2009 R56 non-turbo - N12B16 Engine.  

+1 for Dan. This is a big generalization, but most classics leak at the rear crank seal onto the clutch.

Sounds like a new MINI to me.
Clues:
 - rear hatch
 - so I didn't have to mess with the valve timing by removing the crankshaft hub
 - oil pan
 - new crankshaft hub, bolt, Cam sprocket bolts and new seal

New Mini or classic Mini?

breathers okay? just a thought. You'd think if breather(s) plugged up other areas would leak as well.

2009 R56 N12B16 non-turbo - The car has been flawless for over 25K miles since the rebuild.  2 weeks ago, it developed a pretty noticeable oil leak.  Saturated the Crank pulley side and all under the car leaving oil sprinkles all over the rear hatch.  
I noticed oil pooling around the crankshaft front main seal. 
This time I purchased the front oil seal seating tool so I didn't have to mess with the valve timing by removing the crankshaft hub.  I used a Victor oil seal and reseated it.  Seamed to be just fine for a week.  Today, its leaking again, same spot. I dont see any seepage around the valve cover, oil pan or the timing chain guide bolts.
Is there a brand of front oil seals that are better than another?  In 60 miles, down a half quart of oil. 
Back in the air it will go this weekend.  I bought a Fel-Pro seal.  I really hope this cures the issue. 
I'm done dumping money into these cars. 
   
I guess if this fails, I will buy a new crankshaft hub, bolt, Cam sprocket bolts and new seal and try it one last time.  I would rather not have to go through the whole process of resetting the valve timing/timing chain.  After that, over the cliff it will go...
I am open to any suggestions that make sense.