MK1 hydrolastic displacer tests
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most are in the Technical Talk section.
One such topic addresses testing the displacers when they are off the car.
the topic is “Make your own Hydrolastic testing adapter”
It references this document.
//mk1-performance-conversions.co.uk/pdf/hydrolastic_testing.pdf
Low pressure air (50-70 psi) is pumped into the displacer. The displacer is then placed in
water to check for air bubbles.
I may try using the hydro elbow fitting from the subframe putting a plug on the end
to which the front/rear pipe is fitted. I will use my bicycle pump and 50 psi.
1966 Austin Cooper S
LHD, WET, Personal Export
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I have heard that //www.kipmotor.com/About_KMC.htm in Dallas will refurbish and in the UK https://www.minimail.co.uk
see my how-to in the thread here //elf-hornet.forumotion.com/t1303-hydrolastic-keep-repairing-or-change-to-dry-cone?highlight=hydrolastic
I just wanted to fix the leaks, pressurize them, and confirm that I had no leaks before reinstalling them in the car. But since it took longer than expected, I decided to write that novel. Yeah I know, less words, more pics would be better.
Its been years since I visited that link, all my Imageshack pics went byebye. I think I have found and replaced most of them, now on postimage.org.
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Note the flare nuts are 5/8-18UNF. Don't forget to fit them on first, haha.
Kevin G
1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.
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what type of flare is used on the ends?
1966 Austin Cooper S
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hydraulic tractor service centers and they can fit new hoses no problem.
Keith & Deb
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For now I may go with the cheapest option - nylon flexible with fittings.
1966 Austin Cooper S
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Just removed the hydro unit from the subframe.
how do I “flush” them?
2. Stand bag upright and modify a small funnel to fit into the hose end. I used a trimmed filler cartridge nozzle.
Support hose vertical.
3. Fill funnel with coolant, I use 25% glycol and water for flushing. Gently push end of bag inwards to displace air bubbles by pushing bag down.
4. Top up funnel as needed and repeat until no more bubbles.
Repeat above steps until fluid runs clear. It may take 4 or more repeats.
I then fill with 50/50 glycol and de-ionised water and cap the hose end. Thread is 5/8-18 UNF.
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Re the hoses, I fit new ones by cutting the barb off the bag with a dremel, I then drill and tap 1/8 BSP x 5/16 deep. Use grease on the drill and tap, drill at low speed. Over there you can use NP threads.
I screw a 1/8x3/8 nipple in with Loctite 262. Hose is Pirtek MPH-06 with a 3/8 BSP nut and 3/8 tail crimped on bottom with a brass crimp sleeve.
Top of hose I used original 5/8-18 fittings with a brass crimp sleeve. Crimps done by Pirtek.
Note- the hoses in this pic are original ones, cut about 1" above the barb fitting. So, still look original when installed.
[EDIT)] I test the bag for leaks in a rear subframe corner off cut, with some 3" square tube welded across it. At 280 psi.
Kevin G
1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.
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Just removed the hydro unit from the subframe.
how do I “flush” them?
1966 Austin Cooper S
LHD, WET, Personal Export
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Pre made pipes remvoe alot of 'Pipe bending' labor.. from the equation
On the 66 I worked with we got the pre bent pipes from supplier .had all ends and flares in place. = and suprisingly they fit in and fit up well. Bends were very close and only required some aditionalonal movement to fit into the body clamps.
You will have to remove the subframes to get the pipes run properly against the body to every location.
FLush all the hydro bags and lines really well before further pressurinzing. Trash will get into the shrader valves and at 200+ PSI .. youll loose all your fluid and work.
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1) preformed pipes from mini mania (pricey)
2) nylon flexible pipe, no fittings (cheapest)
3) copper tubing, 2 pieces with fittings (less pricey)
4) steel pipe copper lined, no fittings (second cheapest)
trying to balance cost and originality.
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Car engines make CO2 and trees absorb CO2. By running your engine you're feeding a tree and helping the environment.
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the original steel pipes have holes and breaks.
Trying to keep the ‘66 S as original as possible.
what is the recommended option?
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MGFs have Hydragas not Hydrolastic - pressurised nitrogen spheres as springs instead of rubber in the displacers.
Similar system in theory but very different in actuality. Both systems use the same fluid for interconnecting and pumps for pressurising though.
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Worked with a 66 s Restoration from 'refurbished' bags from Kip motor = unfortnuatly one was defective straight back.. and now a second is leaking after about a year of being installed- They're simply OLD and leaking from the rubber to metal connections not just the rubber hose.
Email me directly if you want some more direction or advise.. Unless this is a concorse car restoration think about going Dry Suspension. its a headache.
Primary pumping tool = Clutch Master Cylnder. Mated to a PSI Gauge - 300 PSI = then adapted to a hydrolic hose to a 'shrader tire valve.
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Have you removed the hydro bags from the subframes yet? Once you extract them from the subframes you'll be able to see the overall condition of them. Whether they are rust damaged or simply old. As Whee noted, there are few placed who rehab these, which amounts to replacing rotten hoses only. No one cuts hydro bags open to repair internal damage (from rusty fluid). So if your bags look ok on the outside, that's the first step.
From there you can submerge them in your bathtub and move the bellows back and forth to see what rusty mess comes out. If its not so much, lucky you. The internals might be just fine. Hose replacement can be done at home if you're handy, assuming you have hydraulic hose shops where you live to source hose and crimp fittings.
I'm simplifying but it's been done and it works. If you need more detail once you've ascertained the overall condition of your bags/hoses, I can send you more information, pics, etc.
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I have heard that //www.kipmotor.com/About_KMC.htm in Dallas will refurbish and in the UK https://www.minimail.co.uk
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