Hi GadgetGav. I think I have the same problem like yours. it was fine but today it wouldn’t started and no cranking at all. I try to locate the starter relay and I just couldn’t find it. Can u tell me where it is? I found some info said it’s about the brake fluid tank area. And how doesn’t it look? Thank you so much. 

Sorry... I'd had a long day yesterday. It was the relay that had died and I swapped.

I should add that I had added an extra engine ground strap as the one that was there was fraying and I'd replaced the battery ground cable in the trunk and cleaned the contact area for it. I'd also removed, cleaned and replaced the contacts at the solenoid and could measure 12.4V at the main terminal on the solenoid but wasn't getting any clicking when I tried to start it. The relay was very corroded although it seemed to still have connectivity across the coil, but switching it go the car cranking again.

Gadget gav. I don't think you know what a solenoid is. I suspect you changed the relay that triggers the starter solenoid on your car, at least that is what it sounds like from your statement that you swapped with the one next to it. There is only a need for one solenoid.

The problem for me was the starter solenoid correction, relay. Tested it by swapping with the other one that's next to it and the engine turned over. A replacement is expected tomorrow. (Now I can just go back to struggling with clutch issues)

Checking the solenoid and grounding is going to be my task today. I replaced the clutch slave cylinder on our 1990 RSP yesterday and when I was done, it wouldn't start. Not even a clicking noise. I know the battery is good because I replaced it last week. The old battery would at least click the solenoid and looked like it was charged to my battery charger, but I replaced it and the car started first time.

I'd disconnected the battery since I knew it wasn't going anywhere without a clutch but when I hooked it back up yesterday I got nothing. The braided strap looked like it was still connected, but I did notice some broken braids, so a new one would be a good fix anyway. I'll have to find the solenoid and check the battery ground to the body.

If it's not one problem it's another... 

Thanks, Dan! Encouraging words!!!!

Musicandcars: Welcome to the board. Glad you've tracked down your car's problem. Most of us have struggled with a nagging problem as you have, and hate to see someone else suffer.

It is also good to report success back - sometimes we never hear when a problem did get solved and are left to wonder. You've jumped ahead and reported success first!

Hey gang,

I'm new to the forum and can I say, what an extremely helpful place! Thanks to everyone who has chimed in as it has helped me track down the issue with my mini.

I'm posting on this page (even though an old chain) because I finally discovered the issue that has plagued my '06 for over a year! I was experiencing similar issues as the original post, but nothing I did could remedy the issue: an intermittent starting issue not related to the battery. So with further research, I figured I'd try the ignition switch. I disassembled the steering cover and checked the ignition switch which visually appeared ok. I put it back in and tried to turn the car over, but still nothing. I started wiggling the connection going into the ignition switch and voila, it started! I have a replacement switch on order and will update with the results.

This is possibly an elementary fix to some of you, but I have not seen a post anywhere on the internet about this specific issue nor any info in my year of extensive online research and asking mechanics and fellow mini owners! 

Hope this helps someone with the same issue.

'06 Mini Cooper S, Manual

Mur and Dr Mini are both on the money... Solonoids and grounding straps are dirt cheap and easy to replace, batteries too.  Just replace them all at once.  The Alternator probably needs service to.  Not a bad idea anyway given that its probably old, and the servicing is well worth the money to know that it has been done while you own the car.

Another item to keep an eye on is the starter itself.  I had the issue in the past where the coil inside the starter was "burned" (for lack of a better term) or worn down in one small spot on the copper coil.  If the starter wasn't in just the right position prior to start, nothing would happen.... and I would push start the car!  (girlfriend wasn't impressed... but she still married me...).

Pull the starter and have it checked to... money well spent to know its done right.

WE HAVE A MINI COOPER, 2003, S.  SHE HAS GIVEN US NO PROBLEMS FOR 8 YEARS.  THAN ABOUT 5 MONTHS AGO GWINI DECIDED TO START WHEN SHE FELT LIKE IT. ALL LIGHTS CAME ON BUT NO CRACKING.  HAD THE BATTERY AND STARTER REPLACED.  WE COULD NOT FIND A PATTERS EXCEPT IT WAS  WORSE IN HOT WEATHER. AFTER PUSHING IT THREE TIMES IN ONE HOT DAY, WE TOOK IT BACK TO THE DEALER FOR THE 4TH TIME. THANK GOODNESS IT WOULD NOT START FOR THEM.  THE PROBLEM WAS THE ELECTRICAL CLUTCH SWITCH MOUNTED UNDER THE DASH BOARD.  WHEN THE CAR HEATED UP, THE SWITCH WOULD NOT WORK.

WE CONTACTED MINI USA FOR IDEAS AND WERE TOLD BY THREE REPS TO KEEP TAKING IT TO DIFFERENT DEALERS AND SOMEONE WOULD SOMEDAY FIND THE PROBLEM .    USELESS ORGINIZATION.

Check the connections to your solenoid.  That's where my problems were.  But I always got power to the lights the car just wouldn't turn over.  The next thing would be to check that you're even getting power to the solenoid from the battery.

Greetings fellow Mini buffs- I too have had problems with my mini not starting. Problem first showed itself after I left work and my car would not start. A co-worker gave my jump start, and went straight to Autozone for battery test. Sure enough the battery had gone bad, so I purchased a new one. Car ran fine for a few days, and then it happened again with a brand new battery. I immediately thought I had a bad alternator, which had eaten down my new battery, but I decided to park the car and deal with it later- that was 6 months ago

The other day I had some spare time so I went into the garage to try to fix my issue. First, I made sure the battery was freshly charged, and I took it to be checked out by the parts store. They confirmed good battery, and full charge. I had hoped that with confirmation of a good battery, I could get the car started and check the alternator to see if it was functioning properly.

I went back and immediately installed the battery into the mini. I double checked the battery connections to make sure everything was nice and tight, and made sure that all the electrical worked. Confirmed Head Lights, blinkers, parking lights, ignition indicators next to the speed-o etc.

After my full check, I turned everything off, I pulled the choke, primed the clutch a few times, holding down on the 3rd pump, and then turned the key. The result, a faint light up of the ignition lights, a "CLICK" sound and then nothing. Completely confused, I immediately turned the key to off and tried all the lights again, nothing worked this time: no headlights, no blinkers, parking lights - nothing.

I got out and checked everything again, but everything looked exactly the same. I pulled the key out of the ignition, and started looking in my mini repair book for trouble shooting tips. Didn't see anything obvious after about 10-15min, so I decided to try again. Everything repeated identical- Lights worked, blinker worked etc. I got excited for the second time, and once again, "CLICK" and once again nothing worked after I tried starting it.

Since that time, I've tried to repeat that same sequence, but I have not been able to get my lights to ever turn on again. I had the battery rechecked, and it confirmed it was still good and had a full charge.

Based on what I've described, has anyone ever seen or heard of something like this, and more importantly, do you have any advice on what should be done next?

In the mean time, I plan on going back and check for corrosion on battery cables, thinking that perhaps it's just bad enough to allow some current to flow through, but not enough to allow for the draw of an engine start. We shall see....

I never posted again but this problem did come back.  As some suggested it could be the solenoid so I checked that next.  When I would wiggle one of the main wires I could get the car to start.  Turns out the male clip was a little loose.  I soldered it on and that seems to be doing the trick.

It also could be the solenoid's own ground where it is bolted to the car.  Get it so that the starter works correctly ten times out of ten.

Clean the ground contact point in the trunk where the wire from the battery connects to the body and the big wire terminals on the solenoid.

Thanks for the tips.  Adding the additional ground seems to have done the trick.  After i added it, the car wouldn't start on the 1st start, but it has now started 5 times in a row which is something I haven't been able to accomplish yet.

Thanks all for the tips.  I looked at the ground wire and it is dirty, rusty and has some split ends.  I will pick up another one from my local auto parts store on the way home tomorrow and get it installed.  Will let you know.

The problem is simple...you have a bad ground.  Very common issue with older Minis (including some late models as well) and very easy to fix.  As most Minis have a braided (uncoated) ground strap, they tend to break individual wires and also get corrosion on them.  What you need to do is to leave the current ground strap in place and augment it by putting a new coated ground strap from a clean (paint free) point on the body to one of the bolts on the flywheel cover.  You can get a premade ground strap from any parts store, such as Autozone, Advance, Checkers, etc.  Been there many times and it is an easy fix to a very frustrating problem.

The charging light is illuminated till the alternator starts to put out some energy.  It could be that your idle is just very low right now and should be adjusted upwards.  Your alternator could go another ten years like that.  Or, it could die tomorrow.  A good way to ruin an alternator is to have bad engine grounds, bad battery to body grounds, and bad battery clamps.  I sound like a broken record here don't I?

There are often unfavourable comments about the electrical systems in British cars.  Frankly, the parts we are discussing fail at similar rates in similar cars. 

Having said all of that, it is nice to rule out any potential issues with the car:  Get a multimeter and check the voltage at the battery.  Check it again at the solenoid.  Now, turn some stuff on like the radio, heater fan, lights, and see where it is at.  Shut that stuff off, have a friend start the car, and watch the voltage change, pay attention to the change it makes as the alternator light goes out.  Load the electrical system again with lights, etc and see where things go to.  Expect to see 12.8V or maybe a bit more with no load.  Add a load and it will drop a bit.  With the engine running, alternator light out, and a few electrical things running you whould still be well over 13, close to 14.

Then, take a few minutes to clean and refit those grounds and +12V cables I mentioned earlier.  Check the wires going to your coil and to your alternator, as they vibrate with the engine and the terminals can fail right where the wire is crimped.

After all of that, there is one major weakness with mini wiring:  headlamps.  They need a pair of relays.  This is a simple and inexpensive modification.  Use the search feature to see where it is discussed in detail.