When I set up suspension like the two waiting for shop power to be restored it is a game of hide and seek. Ride height, camber all four corners, caster, toe front and rear as well as corner weight. As mentioned each adjustment messes with the rest. I have a large collection of welded lower arms, home made adjustable arms both lower and tie rod. Also a couple of sets of the very HD ones and a pile of std upper, lower tie rod, and swing arms. In fact I have piles of just about everything brake drums, brake disc, shifters. Steve (CTR)

Adjustable lower arms and tiebars are the only sensible way to do this, as like Spank said, the standard cars are just not accurate enough to put fixed components on.

I'm running -1° all round with standard toe & camber, and 1° toe in at the back, with factory rideheight and it transforms the car.

Ultimately the camber angle & toe will be set by your personal driving preferences, but I've not experienced any excessive or abnormal tyre wear with my settings, and the outlay on components is more than worth it in smiles and increased driving pleasure.

Start by measuring what you have.  Figure out what you need/want after that.  If you want your Mini to sit an inch lower than stock, you can get away with it.  If you want to drop more than that there is a cost in bump steer, torque steer, driveability/comfort, tire, CV joint, and suspension wear that you have to justify against looking kool and being able to impress passengers while entering freeway on-ramps.  There is a setup that gives you a car with the right bits and the right setup that makes you happy and confident in any situation, that takes a little work. On this forum, let people know your intention, there are folks here who can recommend a setup that will not embarrass you at autocross and yet will not make it an undriveable weekender.  Don't set it up for road racing and expect it to be good daily driver.  

And if you’re not racing ... and actually keeping track of the fractions of seconds change in lap times then it’s all rather academic.  Adjustable suspension is well worthwhile if you’re trying to beat someone else but for a road car??? In the interests of Full Disclosure my Traveller’s suspension is fully adjustable suspension that it inherited from my hill climb car. It would be standard if I actually had to go and buy all the stuff.

cheers, Ian

Camber, caster, and toe out. Keep in mind that changing one changes the other two.

After reading spanks comments, I did put new rubber donuts on last month and have adjustable tie rods. I measured from near of the front Doors and in front of the rear wheels.  I marked them in my book so I would remember.  I have done nothing to the rear. 

Do not buy the fixed 1.5 degree negative camber arms. The mini suspension is not precise enough "in spec" that adding 1.5 degrees of negative camber will result in 1.5 degrees of negative on the road.

As alluded to, the height of the car will impact the camber reading. As mini cones sag, the car will lower and the negative camber reading will increase. Raising the car will give you positive camber.

Using Keith Calver's suspension setup article I found on this site and his quoted numbers, I set up my road-going car and WOW did it transform my car's cornering performance (using 4.5" minilites and 165/70-10 tires. Buying just the lower camber arms though will not get you to where you want to be. It will take buying hilos, adjustable lower front arms and adjustable tierods plus you will need some adjustable rear swingarm brackets or patience and a file/shims and just use the stock rear brackets.

So, I disagree with Fastclown's recommendation. I have found very even tire wear with 1.25-1.5 degrees negative camber on the front and .5 degrees negative camber on the rear, 1/16" toe out up front and no toe on rear 31/2-4 degrees caster

https://www.calverst.com/technical-info/suspension-basic-priorities/
https://www.calverst.com/technical-info/suspension-basic-set-up-method/

After you get your readings, measure the height of your car using some method that is repeatable (sill to ground at leading door edge at front, and grease nipple to ground at rear maybe) and reset your height to restore your other suspension settings as your cones sag and settle.

In the book The Racing Mini by John Baggot there is a story about a Mini that won almost all of the races it entered. I don't have the book at hand so I can't quote specifics. The owner decided to build a new Mini and thought using the suspension settings would be a good idea. When he measured them he found them all different, so he gave up. The moral for an ordinary driver is that fancy suspension hardware is a waste of time. If you lower the front a bit you'll get more than enough negative camber.

You would be better using adjustable arms. Rarely is a mini suspension straight and true in stock form. If you also add adjustable tie bars then you will be able to fully adjust your front suspension to the settings you want. This is good if you have lowered your car as that changes everything.

The bottom arms adjust the camber, the tie bars adjust the castor. The track rod ends on the steering rack adjust toe.

First understand that the outside tire when going around a corner at speed will flex and the tire patch on the ground will change as the tire folds under. Soooooo, if you preset the angle of the tire so that at speed you get as close to 100% of the tire on the ground during those high speed corners, you can go faster. But also consider tire construction (sidewall) and also air pressure. As far as I'm concerned, 1.5 is way to much for the street and it will just eat the inside of the tire as that is mostly what you are riding on. I shoot for about 3/4 degrees with 008's or 032r's. Then play with tire pressure.....

Hi Guys, I am trying to educate myself about 1.5 negative bottoms arms. I know it tilts the top of the tire inwards. For those of you that have actual experience (not theory),  can you tell me what it does to the mini. I was thinking for a street mini.

What does it do the handling, tire wear, steering feel, etc. Thanks in advance for your replies. Jim