Firesign Theater reference? Haven't heard that in a long time. Out of state!

Right arm! I have an 04 cooper s (R 53 with the JCW package) and is supposed to have 200 hp and only 60 that I REALLY need. Oh yeah did I tell you it was also “pepper white“… I think that’s the very important crucial factor

I checked the dyno sheet and the torque range was from 2600 to 5000, not 2300.  Probably lose those stump pulling jobs!??

My torque curve is flat from 3500 to 5000 and I'm real happy with the way it pulls. With yours coming on @ 2300, you could probably rent it out to pull stumps.

I built my engine to produce low end torque.  The last dyno run showed a torque curve that was flat starting at 2300 right up to 5000.  Its a blast to drive without spinning the guts out of it.  Who wants to drive a car that's un-driveable below 4000 RPM unless its a race car?  To me, driveablilty is what's important.

Dyno numbers can be very misleading. As ontim mentioned: "The best use of most dyno runs is to get the best tune on the car with back to back runs on that day." - so comparing your earlier 139 number to the recent 189 number is really not a valid comparison.

There are so many factors that can affect the dyno readings, not to mention the equipment and operator - ambient conditions, amount of heat soak, amount of airflow on the intercooler, just to name a few.

I believe the most important comment you made is "car feels faster" - I am sure your 0 - 60 time has been improved.

Sez the guy w/ less horsepower than a '89 Miata.

Kudos for your honesty. You inspire me to sheepishly admit a similar experience. For what it cost me to have my motor built, I could have had a 650 hp, supercharged 427 c.i. crate motor.

During the time I was writing big checks to my engine builder, I saw Chris Harris interview Nick Swift on CarChannel. He asked Nick what kind of horsepower was he getting from his motors. Nick said he typically gets around 120 hp. I remember thinking, that's for ME!

"Amazing," said Chris. "How long do the engines last?" Nick said, 8 to 10 hours. Okay… so, I ended up with a 1380 A-series w/ 72 hp at the rear wheels. I've made it well past the 10 hour mark, so I guess I made the right decision—although it wasn't exactly my decision. With liberal application of the standard correction factors (drivetrain loss, 3500' elevation, 103°F ambient temp, full moon, etc.), I claim 89 hp at the rear wheels. Other than bragging rights, in the end, horsepower is just a number.

You have not mentioned torque figures, the other half of the equation. Your car may feel and be quicker because you have improved torque, which would get you through gears quicker.

In the end, reality is always disappointing. I spent $ and hours modifying a 1275 classic Mini Cooper S engine and ended up with only 73 hp at the wheels.

What boost levels are you running now compared to stock? With turbocharged cars, assuming the displacement stays the same and there's no intake port work, boost is what is going to determine your maximum power output, with fuel, proper charge air cooling, and tuning to support the increased boost.

If the boost is pretty much the same, then the supporting items can increase power to some extent, but not to a vast degree. The comparison of your turbo boost pressure figures before and after mods may tell you why you're seeing the power increases you are.

If you, say, doubled your boost and this is what you got, then you've got to look at your tuning.

If the new turbo is much bigger and can deliver much more air per pound of boost pressure, then you have to figure out how much extra air the new turbo can deliver per pound of boost compared to the previous one.

Once you know how much extra air should be going into your engine (in theory) then you have an expectation for what the combo could be delivering. If it falls way short, then you can start figuring out what supporting items aren't getting it done in keeping up with the increased air delivery.

At work we have four engine dynometers for testing tier 1 parts on OEM engine’s. Two are AC, and two are old DC Types. The work required to satisfy them is extensive, but SAE has a correction factor or mathematic formula that takes into account a run at sea level on a rainy day verses one in Denver at 5% humidity. Even cooking directions vary for these reasons. The best use of most dyno runs is to get the best tune on the car with back to back runs on that day. It does sound like your modifications have you going in the right direction. Claiming a number is usually suspect.

Thanks for your post, I appreciate it.....dynos are new to me.  

i suspect the Mini “official” hp rating is engine hp.  

i had the car dynoed(?) with just the M7 intake, Akrapovic downpipe and Quicksilver exhaust and had a hp rating of 139.  So I have gained from that earlier reading.

The Generous adjustment I made was a googled suggestion of the loss between engine and dyno.

any further advice, suggestions and info are gratefully received.

How are you adjusting the reading? With a correction formula for location and environmental conditions at the time of the pulls? What kind of dynamometer was it run on, AC, water brake? Are you sure it’s wheel HP your comparing to?

Okay, so a 2013 Mini Cooper S hp is rated by Mini as 181 hp.

I have modified my engine, etc considerably with the following additions:

M7 air intake
Akrapovic downpipe
Quicksilver exhaust system
Mini Mania Turbo K03 42 mm Quick Spool Turbo
Madness Mini ECU tune
Wagner intercooler
blowoff valve kit
oil catch can
 


the best dyno reading I get is 169 hp.
Adjusting this reading by a generous 20% it reads as 211hp.

car feels faster but why the lower reading regarding hp output?  Should I expect more?

what am I missing?