Bucket Seats, Harness, Roll Bar - Soliciting Feedback/Advice
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Aug 20, 2020 08:35PM | Rosebud | Edited: Aug 21, 2020 05:13AM |
Aug 20, 2020 11:30AM | Skiracer | |
Aug 20, 2020 09:29AM | Cheleker | |
Aug 20, 2020 08:58AM | Spank | |
Aug 19, 2020 05:36PM | Skiracer | |
May 27, 2020 11:58PM | 1963SV2 | |
May 26, 2020 08:52PM | Spank | Edited: May 26, 2020 09:04PM |
May 26, 2020 03:51PM | Skiracer | |
May 26, 2020 11:53AM | dklawson | Edited: May 26, 2020 08:53PM |
May 26, 2020 11:41AM | bikewiz | |
May 26, 2020 10:03AM | Skiracer | Edited: May 26, 2020 10:26AM |
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2) Vinyl re-dye? Re-upholstery options?
3) I'd also like to fit a 4 point harness. Is there such a thing as DOT approved?
4) Looking at Safety Devices 4 point roll cage. Again any feedback?
I’ll be the odd-man out here, but since you’re asking for opinions, here’s mine…
1) All other things being equal, seats that provide openings for lap belts are a definite plus. I have Newtons, and I love them. But the bolsters are at least 9” deep and hold the lap belt well away from my torso, making submarining a real possibility.
2) I’ve had good luck with rattle-can vinyl spray. I’ve sprayed 3 VWs over the years; seats, door panels, and headliner. I never expected the seats to hold up. They did, for several years. The driver’s side door panels got scuffed near the footwell requiring occasional touchups. Prep is the key. Get those seats squeaky clean before spraying.
3) I have 5-point harnesses and have no idea if they’re DOT approved. I cut the tags off years ago. Yeah, I know…
4) I have a Safety Devices 6-point cage. The 3 upper bars are covered with Speedway foam (think pool noodles). It seems to me that cylindrical foam is more forgiving than sharp-edged sheet metal. It’s true that the upper bars are 2½” closer to my head than the original sheet metal. On the other hand, I’ve probably extracted >100 people from grisly, high-speed car crashes during my career as a firefighter, and in my opinion, 2½” doesn’t make much difference.
One practical aspect of my roll cage are the door bars. Many well-meaning friends insisted that I’d soon regret the door bars and suggested that I remove them. It turns out that the 9” seat bolsters are flush with the bars, and rather than the bolsters taking all the wear and tear from climbing in and out, the bars are keeping the bolsters looking fresh and new.
Minis are unsafe and impractical on so many levels—not unlike riding a motorcycle. For that reason, I would not recommend a Mini as a daily driver. Likewise, a motorcycle. If safety and practicality are someone’s primary concern, they should consider buying a Volvo station wagon.
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I can't figure out how to post an image on here, but below link shows the seat.
Not a lot of US owners with these seats, so sharing my recommendation for mini owners, but caution they are narrow. The original classics are a bit cheaper, but lack the side openings. Headrest does come off if need to tilt fully forward.
URL: https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=8Rfz6JdR&id=B975CAC166DB9724021F2C45B2EF34774786D49E&thid=OIP.8Rfz6JdRR
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Went with the Cobra Classic CS seats and also using specific cobra mini seat bracket for ease of install, although not overly happy with the bracket as I will need to cut the front mounting tabs for better mounting.
The seats are definitely narrow and would be tight for some and I’m pretty thin. Otherwise super comfortable and great quality. Really changes the sportiness compared to stock seat.
I was going to use Shroth 4 pt ASM harness but the lap belt is too thick to easily use. I also didn’t feel great about it when as the lap belt just wouldn’t stay down; see the need for a true anti sub belt. So I’ll be sticking with a three point at this time.
With how nice the seats look I am now on the hunt for matching rear seat and door cards. Connected with an interior specialist in UK who can make a rear seat cover and door cards with the same cobra leatherette.
Anyone happen to have matching cobra rear seats and / or suggestions on where to get? I found some vendors with cobra rear seat covers but I don’t think they have the same real stitching the Classic cs’s have .
I’ll try to get a picture up to show how they fit and look.
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I wouldn't buy a CS sight unseen ( or more accurately, butt untried. They're quite narrow and have rigid beams down the side to provide support. These are padded ..but if you don't fit you won't fit...
The CS are better (IMH than the ordinary "Classic" seat as they have belt holes that allow the lap belt to fit low down on the hips... I agree with the previous opinions regarding a cage.. Especially with a reclined seat like your CS, your head is going to end up pretty close to the B pillar hoop of the cage. The same goes for a four point harness. Unless you reinforce the rear parcel shelf or the cage has a cross member then there's really no where suitable to attach the shoulder belts...
Pretty much for those reasons, four point harnesses and cages are illegal on road cars where I live. There are special exemptions for rally cars that are used for competition but have to be road registered.
Cheers, Ian
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As I understand it (and, again, please confirm with your own research)...
an FIA or SFI rated harness will always be 5 or 6 point-- so will have 1 or 2 crotch belts aka Anti-submarine belts.<--- that much I'm 100% on... A 4 point belt does not have an anti-submarine strap and a 4-point harness that is not designed "properly" for street use will potentially cause the occupant to slide out the bottom of the lap belt and under the dash in a hard frontal impact. A 3-point car harness is designed to fold the passenger over to channel and dissipate some energy, from what I understand.
Anecdote that helped me learn this information. There was a crash at Chuckwalla Valley raceway and the occupants were in 4 point harnesses only in some sort of hot hatch (civic? Integra?). The passenger died because she submarined and end up under the dash/in the footwell of the car. Supposedly, a "properly designed" 4-point harness has stitching in the shoulder straps that may be designed to break away or loosen to dissipate some energy and prevent the body from submarineing below the lap belt.
This could all be 100% bs, but it is what I think I recall from reading about that Chuckwalla incident and related anecdotes that were shared around that incident.
As for a hoop in a street car, there is an added risk of an unhelmeted head bouncing around and hittind a round, unforgiving bar that is only inches away from it in normal driving conditions. Sure, your head can hit a B-pillar or even a roof rail or an a-pillar, but that metal is actually a bit more forgiving that a round roll bar. In racecars, you have a helmet on and the rollbar is also padded. Furthermore, the safety devices cage and most other commercially available cages are designed to fit in the vehicle with it's full interior, including the headliner. And they generally are designed to give ample room for differences in manufacturing tolerances from vehicle to vehicle and their own tolerances as the roll bar manufacturer. All of that is to say, commercially available roll bars will eat up a lot of interior room and put the bar closer to the occupants head than would a custom bar or cage purpose built for a racecar. If you are already a full sized occupant, you may want to make sure you are happy with the added limitations that a rollbar might place on your seating position. I'm not saying to NOT do a rollbar-- just saying to try out sitting in someone else's car that has one before going through the expense.
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I’ll reach out to newton on color options for that particular seat.
If I go the dye route I’ll definitely looking to find a pro. I’m also worried about the cracking after some seat time.
Anyone else out there with ideas or insights ?
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2) Vinyl re-dye?
3) I'd also like to fit a 4 point harness. Is there such a thing as DOT approved? I read conflicting things
4) Looking at Safety Devices 4 point roll cage. Again any feedback?
2) I have used vinyl dye on static panels with good results. If the panels are going to flex (like a seat) I expect the coating (it's really a coating... not a dye) the seat will probably develop cracks quickly. I would not try to re-color seats at home. Pros may have options you don't.
3) DOT approval labels may not be on 4-point harnesses. However, if you buy an FIA approved racing harness it should be of higher quality and designed for higher loads than a regular DOT approved street car set of belts.
4) Unless you plan on driving around wearing a helmet I would reconsider the roll cage in a street car. Your bare head won't fare well bouncing around and hitting the cage.
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As for your other questions I have no experience.
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1) Any feedback on Cobra Classic CS? Fitment, feel? Opinions on other similar seats?
2) My interior is a light cream color. I'd like to keep the front seats the same color (and ideally pattern) as the original so to match the trim and rear seats. Any recommendations on the most efficient and effective way of doing so? Vinyl re-dye? Re-upholstery options?
3) I'd also like to fit a 4 point harness. Is there such a thing as DOT approved? I read conflicting things
4) Looking at Safety Devices 4 point roll cage. Again any feedback?
Lastly, for the seats, I am looking at vendor www.sportsseats4u.co.uk. Has anyone ever heard of them? Ordered from them? They seem to have the best prices around even with shipping to the states. I always support MM, but they don't have the specific style I am interested in.
Appreciate any insights.
URL: https://www.sportseats4u.co.uk/shop/racing-seat-harness-roll-cages-brands/cobra-seats/cobra-historic-classic-bucket-seats/cob