Created by: | Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
| May 22, 2020 06:54PM | 1963SV2 | |
| May 22, 2020 05:41PM | dklawson | Edited: May 22, 2020 05:46PM |
| May 22, 2020 04:40PM | 1963SV2 | |
| May 22, 2020 01:44PM | Willie_B | |
| May 22, 2020 01:24PM | JackCE |
Posted:
May 22, 2020
06:54PM
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Total posts: 1716
Last post: Oct 18, 2020 Member since:Oct 18, 2011
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Well done Doug, I always enjoy your step-by-steps...
For problems like this I do prefer the "trouble light". They're cheap as chips. Mine has an alligator clip for earth and a needle probe for the hot end. You clip on to a suitable earth and then poke around with the probe .. much quicker..
Its also important to check that the right coloured wire is attached to the right terminal... although that may be too much egg sucking..
Cheers, Ian
For problems like this I do prefer the "trouble light". They're cheap as chips. Mine has an alligator clip for earth and a needle probe for the hot end. You clip on to a suitable earth and then poke around with the probe .. much quicker..
Its also important to check that the right coloured wire is attached to the right terminal... although that may be too much egg sucking..
Cheers, Ian
Edited:
May 22, 2020
05:46PM
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As Willie said, knowing your location will allow local Mini owners to offer and help sort this out. As 1963 said, you need a manual and a voltmeter (or test lamp) to sort this out.
Lucas wiring follows a standard. Some basic things to remember are that brown wires are connected to the battery cable attached to the starter solenoid (brown wires are always hot and not fused). White wires are switched (via the ignition switch) but they are not fused either. Purple wires are always hot and fused (they don't pass through the ignition switch).
Therefore, your headlamps, courtesy lights, and horn are going to work even if the ignition switch is not operational.
New parts can be bad but I doubt your switch is at fault. I assume you have a multimeter. If not, go to Harbor Freight or Northern Tool and buy one. You don't have to have a top of the line model. Locate the brown wire from the main harness going to your new ignition switch. Pierce that brown wire with a sharp straight pin. Set your meter to measure volts and check between the piercing pin and a bare metal spot inside the car. If you find 12V on the brown wire, then you have power to the ignition switch. If you don't... look carefully at the harness to see why that brown wire doesn't have power (burned through, disconnected, cut? )
If you have power on the brown wire move the piercing pin from the brown wire to the white wire leaving the switch. Turn the key to the run position and repeat the voltage measurement from the pin to ground. If you find 12V on the white wire, power is passing through the ignition switch. If you don't find 12V on the white wire (and there was power on the brown wire) then the problem is with your new switch.
If there was power on the brown and white wires, move your attention to the fuse box. The white wire at the fuse box will branch off AND supply power to one of the fuses. Check that fuse and the fuse box.
Also on the ignition switch should be a white/red wire. That's the trigger wire for the ignition solenoid You can use the piercing pin on the white/red wire like you did earlier. However, make sure the car is in neutral. Turn and hold the key in the start (not run) position to see if there is power on the white/red wire. There should only be power on the white/red wire when you turn the key all the way to start.
Let us know what you find.
Lucas wiring follows a standard. Some basic things to remember are that brown wires are connected to the battery cable attached to the starter solenoid (brown wires are always hot and not fused). White wires are switched (via the ignition switch) but they are not fused either. Purple wires are always hot and fused (they don't pass through the ignition switch).
Therefore, your headlamps, courtesy lights, and horn are going to work even if the ignition switch is not operational.
New parts can be bad but I doubt your switch is at fault. I assume you have a multimeter. If not, go to Harbor Freight or Northern Tool and buy one. You don't have to have a top of the line model. Locate the brown wire from the main harness going to your new ignition switch. Pierce that brown wire with a sharp straight pin. Set your meter to measure volts and check between the piercing pin and a bare metal spot inside the car. If you find 12V on the brown wire, then you have power to the ignition switch. If you don't... look carefully at the harness to see why that brown wire doesn't have power (burned through, disconnected, cut? )
If you have power on the brown wire move the piercing pin from the brown wire to the white wire leaving the switch. Turn the key to the run position and repeat the voltage measurement from the pin to ground. If you find 12V on the white wire, power is passing through the ignition switch. If you don't find 12V on the white wire (and there was power on the brown wire) then the problem is with your new switch.
If there was power on the brown and white wires, move your attention to the fuse box. The white wire at the fuse box will branch off AND supply power to one of the fuses. Check that fuse and the fuse box.
Also on the ignition switch should be a white/red wire. That's the trigger wire for the ignition solenoid You can use the piercing pin on the white/red wire like you did earlier. However, make sure the car is in neutral. Turn and hold the key in the start (not run) position to see if there is power on the white/red wire. There should only be power on the white/red wire when you turn the key all the way to start.
Let us know what you find.
Doug L.
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Did you do a continuity check on the (new) ignition switch before installation? ... and useful to do the same with the old one as well....
I guess then its just a case of chasing the circuits. Do you have a wiring diagram..... and a test light?
If the ign switch checks out then I would be looking at the fuse block.... and so on..
Cheers, Ian
I guess then its just a case of chasing the circuits. Do you have a wiring diagram..... and a test light?
If the ign switch checks out then I would be looking at the fuse block.... and so on..
Cheers, Ian
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No location in your profile. If we knew where you are there may be someone close that could help.
Mini wiring is pretty basic. Have you checked with a multi-meter that you have power going to the switch?
"How can anything bigger be mini?"
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Hi all,
I recently purchased a 78 Austin mini 1000 as a project. It's been sitting a few years and needs some work. For some reason it seems to have no power coming from the ignition cylinder, I just replaced it today with a unit from seven mini parts thinking it was the cylinder itself that had gone bad. But I installed the new one and still nothing works. Other things like headlights and the horn still work, but ignition cylinder related items don't. The idiot I bought it from had the battery hooked up backwards and when he tried to start it fried the old ignition switch and the alternator, and now I'm worried I've got more of a wiring mess on my hands, Any tips or help would be very much appreciated, as I'm not sure what I should try next.
Thanks,
Jack
