One caution about leaving the key in the ignition - if left in the ignition long enough, it will eventually drain the battery. The key is active when it is in the ignition, or anywhere near the ignition.... (RF signals)

Let us know if you get anything different from the dealer.

One problem with getting a new key is the cost - they are somewhere north of $200 from the dealer!

I am new to this forum stuff so please forgive me if I do something wrong.

Dan Moffet everything that I know about batteries that is a good voltage and amperage checked out too. Usually battery cells store about 2.1VDC per cell in a 6 cell battery. I am not arguing just telling you what I know in regards to batteries. The only time you get that charge rate is when the alternator is charging and that should fall between 13.7VDC and 14.6VDC I may be off by a .1 or so. I do appreciate your input and I did hook it up to a running car, fully charged jump pack, and a battery charger nothing changed. But I cant figure this out myself so trust me I am not talking down at all. I am just bouncing things off the forum or laying out the trouble shooting I have done or logic behind it. Thank you Thank you Thank you keep the suggestions coming though.


Kenatminimania I am picking up what you are putting down. I called the dealership and he said there is no way to check the fob. With that being said I could always unlock the doors with the fob without an issue, so wouldn't that rule out the key being dead or do you think it takes more power to talk to the can than to unlock the door? I will call the dealership again tomorrow maybe I might get someone different and might be of more assistance. Hell at this point I am willing to just pay for a Key Fob to see if it will work. I specifically asked if he had 2 and he said they got it with one, they weren't the original owners. They did however log about 25k miles on it from the title that was given to me. 

Now want to hear something crazy???

So I went to work and I used the physical key to unlike the doors, that worked of course. Something told me to just put the fob in the cas while I went to work. I cam home about 10 hours later and all the lights on the dash were on. I just knew it was going to start so I jumped in and hit the clutch and the start button..... and nothing lol. I couldn't get the fob back out either. I had to disconnect the cas from the ribbon for it to unlock. I don't know if that story might help but all the windows worked, sunroof, head lights, and so on. It just still wouldn't start. Once I connected the cas back nothing lit up just like before.

Okay, here is what I read: the battery was replaced by the previous owner, driven about a month, then parked.  Then the car was sold with all the problems you described...  It seems like something is missing in that gap between 'parked' and 'sold'...

Here is a link to the owners manual since it sounds like you don't have one.

It sounds like you only received one key fob with the car? (they are usually delivered with two keys).  Does the car react any different if you try the key with the battery charger attached?

The symptoms you describe sounds like the key fob is not being recognized by the car. These fobs have a security feature where it transmits an RFID to the car to tell it that it is okay to enable the starter system to start the car. The fob also has a memory where it stores information such as the vin number, the 'build sheet' from the factory, and all service records performed by MINI. The MINI service desk has a key reader that can access all this information (might be interesting to take the key to the dealer to see what it says - you may need the vehicle registration for proof of ownership if you don't have the car there).

It is very possible the battery in the fob had died - it is usually recharged by the car when it is running.  The battery in the fob is 'not replaceable' (unless your MINI has the Comfort Access option), but you may find some procedures on the web on how to replace the battery. Apparently, it is difficult to open these keys without damaging the board inside - proceed with caution if you choose to go this route.  There are also many MINI 'key repair' businesses online that claim they can repair keys....

ps. thanks bc

12.4 volts for a charged battery seems low to me. A fully charged battery should read 13.2 volts. You may have a bad cell - they can die quite suddenly. Try connecting a known good battery.

hi. ken should chime in here at MM. as most of old guys ONLY own classic minis.. later bc

Good Day to Everyone!!!

I come seeking knowledge for I am a brand new Mini Cooper Owner. I will set the stage for this....ummm ummm ummm. I recently bought a 2010 Mini Cooper non turbo w/ manual that would not start. I always wanted one and figured I would take the chance on it. I didnt pay much for it in my opinion so I said hey why not. I am some what mechanically inclined so that is why I took the chance. What I know about the car... The car had its battery changed and was not hooked up to a external power source. Previous owner said they did drive it afterwards for about a month and then bought a new car cause they needed a bigger vehicle. They did have a brand new car in the driveway. Checked the oil and it was used but not dark, definitely was used but just a dark amber color. No milky frothy looking stuff under the fill cap and top had same color oil in it from dipstick. No leaks anywhere around the vehicle and it did not look like someone had just washed it. All fluids were in right range and all looked normal. Interior looked brand new and the car only has 106k miles on it. Paint in great condition and tires had plenty of life on it. Everything about this car to me said take a chance on it. 

Now description of problem:
Key fob unlocks door with zero issues. Get in the car put the fob in the ignition slot and nothing happens, no lights on the instrument panels come at all, fuel indication isnt on either... I mean nothing turns on. Its almost like the car doesnt recognize there is even a fob in it. They only had one key fob with the car so I cant check to see if it was the fob. Well the fob could be pulled out with it in so I read to change that. I also read you dont have to reprogram anything just for that. I swapped it out and still nothing. Before doing all of that I checked all the fuses/ relays under the hood... swapped relays that were alike, ohmed fuses, multi-meter volt checks, and visually all checked out good. I checked all the fuses on the passenger side visually taking them out and ohming them, all good. The battery was  brand new, but was low from sitting at 9.3v, and I recharged it to to 12.4v. I never found a bad relay or fuse. I took a volt check at the stater and battery volt was present at big red wire (12.4v). I still feel like its the fob/ignition switch or something to do with it not sending a signal to the starter. I called mini... I stay an hour away and would have to tow it there. Tried to get some helpful info and he was reluctant of course. He said the ignition has to be reprogrammed and that was the CAS. I thought the CAS was a module like the left foot well module... oh yeah I took that out too and it looked good inside and out, no burn marks or evidence of water. But I have no way to electrically check it. This mini cooper is a hardtop, i forgot to mention that and I live in AZ. If I hit the right button on the tach meter the odometer will pop up, a small triangle with a ! mark, and the bigger one will be a car on a jack (amber color). Ive read this is just notifying that a service is due? Can someone confirm? If I hold the right button it will not let me go in that "secret menu".Now more baffling things... I cant turn my headlights on, but can turn on parking lights, horn works, windows dont work but I assume that is because the car isnt turned on or in Aux mode. Radio works with key not in slot but I have also read that is normal, can someone confirm? Windows do however creep down every now and then when unlocking car but there is no rhyme or reasoning to it. Sunroof doesnt work but once again I assume its because nothing is on with the cluster. The door locks will make a noise like they are trying to unlock or lock by their self including the back hatch. Inside door lock by window buttons wont do anything either. The interior lights work just like any other car when you open the door... dome light and foot well lights come on. I dont have access to reprogram anything or at least I dont know where and how to get the software without spending an arm and a leg if anyone thinks something needs to be reprogrammed. 

So am I crazy for thinking it is the ignition/ or key fob still? Oh I asked Mini if they can check the fob if I take them just the fob and he told me he cant. It could also be the foot well module with all the electrical issues too? It could be both of them. Has anyone experienced any thing like this before? Reading some of these forums I see most people ask to be specific so thats why I went into great detail. Also I noticed some people like to get on and troll or be condescending towards the poster, no need for that. I just need helpful information that may help me solve this issue. I am trying to avoid going to mini seeing they want to charge $200 just to scan it and $135 I believe he said an hour. Thank you in advanced for any help you may be able to provide.