Randon Mini Questions
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Aug 1, 2019 11:55AM | GUN5L1N6ER | |
Aug 1, 2019 11:34AM | Rosebud | |
Aug 1, 2019 11:26AM | Rosebud | |
Aug 1, 2019 11:12AM | GUN5L1N6ER | |
Aug 1, 2019 10:16AM | thewerewolf | |
Aug 1, 2019 09:16AM | GUN5L1N6ER | Edited: Aug 1, 2019 09:25AM |
Aug 1, 2019 09:15AM | Dan Moffet | |
Jul 31, 2019 10:44AM | GUN5L1N6ER | |
Jul 31, 2019 06:02AM | thewerewolf | |
Jul 30, 2019 09:12PM | Rosebud | Edited: Jul 30, 2019 10:03PM |
Jul 30, 2019 11:53AM | GUN5L1N6ER | |
Jul 30, 2019 04:42AM | CooperTune | |
Jul 29, 2019 01:14PM | thewerewolf | |
Jul 22, 2019 06:02PM | thewerewolf | |
Jul 22, 2019 08:24AM | GUN5L1N6ER | |
Jul 22, 2019 07:53AM | thewerewolf | |
Jul 20, 2019 11:58AM | malsal | Edited: Jul 22, 2019 09:04AM |
Jul 19, 2019 01:56PM | dklawson | |
Jul 19, 2019 01:38PM | thewerewolf | |
Jul 19, 2019 10:53AM | Whee | Edited: Jul 19, 2019 10:54AM |
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Edit: have tried to upload the photo but keep getting a blank box with an "x" inside. Will try again later.
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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Hello Gunslinger! I reread this thread from the beginning and thought I’d give you my take on some of the issues you’ve raised. Keep in mind these are my opinions; they are reasonably well informed, but not the last word by any means.
1) Oil: I think you are wise in choosing a synthetic oil, and 20w-50 is the correct viscosity. You’ll find many who will insist that synthetic oil should not be used in older cars like the Mini, but I’ve never heard a reasonable explanation as to why. Usually, the rationale for using a non-synthetic is “older engines were built using more primitive alloys and larger tolerances and therefore were designed to use the oil available at the time.” Until I see more convincing information, I'm not buying it.
Additives and heat dissipation notwithstanding, the primary purpose of engine oil is lubrication, and synthetic oil is way slipperier than conventional oil. A couple of caveats; our engines require a zinc additive. If the oil of your choice doesn’t contain zinc, zinc additives are readily available [link]. Caveat no. 2, because our engines share the oil with the transmission, synthetic oil is so slippery that the balk rings (synchros) in the transmission don’t get a good enough bite, and the gears will occasionally crunch during a shift, unless you do a good job of rev-matching. Some synthetics do a better job than others, synchro-wise, so you might want to experiment with different brands. I did, and finally settled on an oil that allows the synchros to do their job reasonably well.
2) Grill removal: You’ll be surprised at how often you’ll need to remove the grill. Get a set of “Grill Buttons” [link]. I also replaced the sheet metal screws that fasten the upper part of the grill with riv-nuts. Much easer [link].
3) Nosiness: Well placed DynaMat (floor pan, backside of firewall, doors, etc.) will reduce interior noise by 20-30% [link]. Headphones and/or ear plugs will take care of the rest [link].
4) Radiator hoses: I’d replace all of your black, rubber water hoses with silicon [link]. There’s a huge range of quality when it comes to automotive rubber. I wouldn’t risk it. Silicon hoses last a lifetime, plus they look great. Too flashy(?)—get black ones.
Anytime you have a gathering of gearheads there’ll be a wide range of experience and knowledge. This forum is no exception. Some members can assemble a motor with their eyes shut, while others have never changed a spark plug. Most of us fall somewhere in between. The trick is figuring out who’s who. Fortunately, most of the newbies here tend to have more questions than advice, and the experts have a degree of modesty and humility—rare for experts in any field. You’ll figure it out. Good luck!
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Be careful to re use the short bolts when installing the shroud as longer ones will puncture the radiator, new radiators usually come with 10mm metric bolts.
While you have it apart with the two heater hoses disconnected flush out the heater matrix it usually is full of rusty water.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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If you haven't bought a manual yet, that should be top on your list.
As for draining that radiator, a lot of Minis don't have a petcock to drain them. Just loosen the lower radiator hose and slip it off. It will make an awful mess so use a large catch basin if you have one.
You should expect that removing the radiator and its shroud will tax your patience. It is easier if you have small hands.
If you are fitting a water pump with the bypass hose to the head, consider buying a short length of heavy duty 1/2" heater hose for the job. It will last much better than a lot of the parts sold for the task.
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When I changed the thermostat, I started looking at the entire cooling system. Some of the hoses are beginning to crack and my current radiator doesn't have a drain plug. I have enroute a new radiator, radiator cap, fan, top and bottom radiator hoses, and water pump. I don't think I need a new water pump but since I was replacing the majority of the cooling system, I figured I would go ahead and replace that while everything else was out.