× 1-800-946-2642 Home My Account Social / Forum Articles Contact My Cart
Shop Now
Select Your Car Type Sale Items Clearance Items New Items
   Forum Width:     Forum Type: 

Found 24 Messages

Previous Set of Pages 1 | 2

 Posted: Sep 23, 2019 05:23AM
Total posts: 4134
Last post: Oct 13, 2020
Member since:Oct 8, 2011
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
While the diff side covers are the same size wise they all wear. I did a batch of 62 diff side covers last year a mix of pot and yoke type. Remove seal and bush, clean, paint strip, glass bead, check for cracks and warp, press new bushings and align hone to size in pairs. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Sep 23, 2019 12:12AM
TK
Total posts: 1124
Last post: Jan 12, 2024
Member since:May 13, 2002
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
AU
Diff side covers will not need to be changed to go to pots

 Posted: Sep 22, 2019 03:42PM
Total posts: 1716
Last post: Oct 18, 2020
Member since:Oct 18, 2011
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Hi Dave, as I said before... you could do this ... its what I did a few years ago..  

However, you could also swap the output shafts (with matching side plates) from your existing engine into the new one.  

I prefer the pot joints as I feel they're smoother and new bits will always be a better bet .....but the option is there.

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Sep 22, 2019 07:47AM
 Edited:  Sep 22, 2019 08:41AM
Total posts: 8382
Last post: Jan 13, 2022
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Those are the inner cv's you need.
If your car has the original 1968 axles they may/should work without having to replace them, of course this all depends on what you currently have and how much has been changed over the last 50 plus years.
When you convert to discs you will need the larger outer cv's also.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Sep 22, 2019 07:20AM
Total posts: 12
Last post: Sep 22, 2019
Member since:Apr 28, 2014
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Hey Ian,

I have purchased the 1275 from MM and I have the proper shift mechanism now, it is down simply to the driveshaft, looks like I need the POT style, I do have two carbs and I am even looking at doing the hub to disc brake conversion as nothing more important than stopping they tell me

My neighbor and partner helping me with this upgrade is working on his road runner and has rebuilt many different vehicles but neither of us have ever dealt with the mini, so I do have assistance.  So, at this point I just need to confirm which axels I need with the inner CV joint to match up with my new 1275 from MM

https://www.minimania.com/part/DAM667A/Classic-Austin-Mini-Inner-Cv-Pot-Joint

The axels I think I need are...

https://www.minimania.com/part/C-BTA1268/Austin-Mini-Monte-Driveshafts-Pot-Joint-Type-Pair

I will start posting pictures as I am moving everything into my basement shop and once there I can work on the car in a better location.

/Dave

 Posted: Sep 21, 2019 11:46PM
Total posts: 1716
Last post: Oct 18, 2020
Member since:Oct 18, 2011
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Hey Dave, I guess that, now we know where you're coming from, we need to know where you're going....  How about a pic of the new engine .. preferably from the back so we can see the rear of the diff case.  This will tell us what kind of shift mechanism you need.

Did you buy a big bore or small bore setup?  I'm guessing that the reference to "closer to freeway speeds" = a 1275??  What about accessories - how "complete" is the new engine?? Carb(s)/manifolds (in and out), dizzy, radiator, fuel pump .. how about brakes?

Have you got a manual (as in How to ... not stick shift )?

Unless you're faced with a 100 mile freeway commute,   I wouldn't worry about using it as a daily driver...  That's what they were designed to do.  Most Minis give trouble through under not over use.

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Sep 21, 2019 11:14AM
Total posts: 12
Last post: Sep 22, 2019
Member since:Apr 28, 2014
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Hey Ian,

Sorry, a bit slow to respond, so I added a picture of this project as it stands right now, I have the front up on jack stands with the engine removed, given the tight quarters I thought I would start with this picture, the color is poor only due to the sun shining through an orange covered work area.  This is literally my only car, although I do have a work truck to get parts but aside from hoping to make this a portion of my daily driver a Motorcycle is all I have.

It is a Right Hand Drive Morris cooper brought over to California from the UK in 1968, the original engine began to give me troubles and I really wanted to be able to drive it a 'closer' to freeway speeds so I bit the bullet and stopped bother MM and bought the engine.  I want to keep it as a right hand drive and even went so far as to convert it to an alternator with the purchase of the dynalite alternator which looks like the original lucas generator that was on it.  If it comes to replacing everything in the front end to make this work so be it, it is simply such a fun ride and love the looks it gets when it is out and about.

The interior has no flaws (and only lap belts) the console was modified with a wood veneer finish... Not much more to tell you, except aside from some basic work on my fork lift and other machinery around the place along with some as some high school auto shop I am a total newbie and thought this would be a fun project.

I did try to get in touch with MM without success so far, I will call on Monday again, hoping to get in touch with someone who can help, it is a bit of a ride to Nevada City from Santa Cruz but if I need to, a few days off and a road trip might be my next course of action.

/dave

 Posted: Sep 20, 2019 03:19PM
Total posts: 1716
Last post: Oct 18, 2020
Member since:Oct 18, 2011
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Hi Dave, I don’t think there’s any big issues here..... just a bunch of details

Unfortunately we don’t really know what you had ..or what you bought. Its possible that many of the parts you need can be swapped from the old engine to the new.

However, to start with, its not even really obvious that you actually have a Mini???

To give us a starting point, how about some photos???

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Sep 20, 2019 01:51PM
Total posts: 12
Last post: Sep 22, 2019
Member since:Apr 28, 2014
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Hey Ian and Jedduh,

I had spent a couple years actually humming and hawing over the purchase, did call and even visited MM in Nevada City but until you jump you never realize the questions you 'should have asked' . This was the first Mini I have ever owned and the massive changes that really had taken place between my '68 thru '70 were not evident to a newbie like myself.

So, I cannot go back, I really want to move forward and to gain the benefit of the 1275 and new transmission it seems new inner cv and shafts are the way to go.

Thanks,
Dave

 Posted: Sep 18, 2019 07:18PM
Total posts: 1716
Last post: Oct 18, 2020
Member since:Oct 18, 2011
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedduh01
Probably would have been good to have had a conversation with Mini mania about your swap so they could have assembled a better Combo for your install..  Going from an Early Engine to Late setup brings all these complications.

As Spank says=  To avoid axle Shaft changes. you can change the differerential  = but you must also swap Crown wheel gears to ensure the ratios match.  
It would only cost you some gaskets + seals  but you would end up with a whole 'early' axle setup in a late model trans. Not a problem

Then the can of worms.   =   What final drive ratio?    if you have that apart.  then its only a matter of one more end transmission cover to swap to a Lower final drive ratio... 3:10 is my preference for all Mini's ...  if you have a 3:44 = it will work as many cars run them every day. You might only know if you open it up.
I find it quite strange that you would spend all that money without enquiring/discussing what you were going to receive....

Also, I don't think I understand what's being said below... "... To avoid axle Shaft changes. you can change the differential .."  True, maybe ..but not really... If you're thinking of this, why not just swap your old output shafts into your new diff??? - you'll need to swap the diff side covers but that's no big deal while you've got everything apart..  (Although, I prefer the pot joints, even if it means buying new drive shafts .and joints).

However, before considering any of this ... and certainly before pulling anything apart, you should ring MM and have a conversation along the lines of .... " I had this ..you sold me this ...what do I do now...." 

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Sep 18, 2019 05:32PM
Total posts: 1649
Last post: Jun 22, 2022
Member since:Apr 30, 2009
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
Probably would have been good to have had a conversation with Mini mania about your swap so they could have assembled a better Combo for your install..  Going from an Early Engine to Late setup brings all these complications.

As Spank says=  To avoid axle Shaft changes. you can change the differerential  = but you must also swap Crown wheel gears to ensure the ratios match.  
It would only cost you some gaskets + seals  but you would end up with a whole 'early' axle setup in a late model trans. Not a problem

Then the can of worms.   =   What final drive ratio?    if you have that apart.  then its only a matter of one more end transmission cover to swap to a Lower final drive ratio... 3:10 is my preference for all Mini's ...  if you have a 3:44 = it will work as many cars run them every day. You might only know if you open it up.

 Posted: Sep 18, 2019 03:05PM
Total posts: 12
Last post: Sep 22, 2019
Member since:Apr 28, 2014
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
That last point is very interesting!!

 Posted: Sep 18, 2019 02:35PM
Total posts: 6349
Last post: Oct 22, 2023
Member since:Mar 9, 1999
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
if you have a mini chassis, you can get the axles from another mini commonly called pot joint axles.

If you have an MG1100, I'm not sure where you can get pot joint axles of the proper length. Rumor has it that MG Metro axles are the proper length, but I've not had the opportunity to test them out even though I've been pining away for a set for the past 5 years or so and nobody has been able to help me get some.

You can also change the differential in your new transmission to the differential in your old transmission.

 Posted: Sep 18, 2019 10:39AM
Total posts: 12
Last post: Sep 22, 2019
Member since:Apr 28, 2014
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
onetim,

You are awesome, let me start talking to MM about the right drive shaft!!

Interesting about the clutch, threw me off when you asked but makes so much sense, I will research this and post what I find and likely be spending a few more dollars


Thanks again,
Dave

 Posted: Sep 18, 2019 09:46AM
Total posts: 1007
Last post: Jul 19, 2022
Member since:Jul 24, 2014
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Good point

 Posted: Sep 18, 2019 09:43AM
Total posts: 6349
Last post: Oct 22, 2023
Member since:Mar 9, 1999
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Can you clarify if you have a mini or an mg1100 chassis that you are putting your new engine into?

 Posted: Sep 18, 2019 09:10AM
 Edited:  Sep 18, 2019 09:36AM
Total posts: 1007
Last post: Jul 19, 2022
Member since:Jul 24, 2014
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Not sure what a MG 1100 would use as a clutch, but when I received my 1989 1275 from MM it had a verto clutch type which is a newer type than the pre verto clutch which would have been used in 1968. They will both work, but the pre verto is usually considered better. You need to know which you are using to make sure the slave cylinder, actuating lever, and wok or clutch cover are correct, as they are different for the 2 clutch types. If all that came assembled on the trans/engine from MM you should have all the correct parts. I had a pre verto setup from my old engine I reconditioned for the MM 1275.

Yes them pot joints, Not them drive shafts. MM will know the part number's you need, shafts will be used, pot joints could be used as well, just check em for wear and use new grease/boots.

I am kind of surprised MM is not talking with you about all the parts needed for your conversion, should be easy money for them, and good for you. Make sure you speak with them on the phone, west coast hours, they were very helpful in my case, as well as here on the forum.

Ken? This is a paying customer.

 Posted: Sep 17, 2019 05:13PM
Total posts: 12
Last post: Sep 22, 2019
Member since:Apr 28, 2014
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0

Hey onetim,

Thank you so much for the response, I am confused about the clutch question though?  So you are saying that I need ...

https://www.minimania.com/part/DAM667A/Classic-Austin-Mini-Inner-Cv-Pot-Joint


and these drive shafts?

https://www.minimania.com/part/27H4776/Austin-Mini-S-type-Drive-Shaft-Left-Side-Short-Heavy-Duty

just using these two as examples?

 Posted: Sep 17, 2019 12:24PM
 Edited:  Sep 17, 2019 12:25PM
Total posts: 1007
Last post: Jul 19, 2022
Member since:Jul 24, 2014
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Back to MM, you need inner cv joints and drive shafts in my case the outer cv joint were retained. Time for new cv boots as well as a check for wear on all the joints. What clutch type are oh going with? Pre verto or verto?

 Posted: Sep 17, 2019 11:34AM
Total posts: 12
Last post: Sep 22, 2019
Member since:Apr 28, 2014
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Image Gallery

Your answer was spot on and I have made progress, now I have a new issue.. thought I would continue this thread if possible... I have my original differential output...

Original Differential Output

and my new MM engine has a 'new' output that of course my drive shaft cannot connect to.. (hopefully these images are attaching)

new MM Differential output shaft

Would you know what I need to purchase to connect to this new output shaft?  of course this would be for both right and left.. attaching smaller images to left as well

Found 24 Messages

Previous Set of Pages 1 | 2