.005 is great. Just make sure you put them in facing the correction direction: The copper colored part is touching the crank face.



Minutia  (OP please don't bother yourself with doing this-- not NECESSARY. But for the obsessive...) : I like to set the crank thrust first using just the block side (in my assembly orientation-- bottom side) washers, then I do just the cap side thrusts, sometimes by themselves but most often in tandem with the block washers. My theory (and it's just a theory) is if one of the thrusts is going to hit the crank first, I'd prefer it to be the block side thrusts because my thinking is if the cap side thrusts hit first then the clutch action on the crank pushes the cap a thou or two sooner and stresses the main bolts and cap itself.  Sure, ideally both block and crank side hit at the precise same time. And I'll sometimes set up for that. But, in my head, so long as the block side is hitting first and installing the cap sides don't change the end float, I'm happy. Oh, and this is mostly just for the flywheel side. The "off" side is not under as much lateral stress as it doesn't get the depressed-clutch side-loading.

I look at it as one of those baseball type superstition routines-- Like maybe not shaving or always wearing the same pair of socks while building the motor and until it is assembled and running in the car.

I set mine at 8 for a fast road engine but 5 for a daily driver type use is fine. Just make sure your using a dial indicator and not feeler gauges.