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 Posted: Dec 22, 2017 05:49PM
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Check your wrench calibration.  They do get out of adjustment.

You can supplement your torque wrench with a digital torque adapter.  I have the one in the link below.  It comes with a calibration certificate.  I have compared it to the torque standards we have at work and found it to be very accurate.

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-ARM602-4-Digital-Adapter-4-147-6/dp/B004VYURT0

Doug L.
 Posted: Dec 22, 2017 05:04PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dklawson
If you are uncertain of the condition through your own exam, take the head back off and have a machine shop inspect it for you.  If it is OK, they can install HeliCoils in the stripped holes.

The 5/16" rocker studs do not go to 45 ft-lb.  That is only for the 3/8" fasteners.  Also, studs do NOT get torqued in.  They go in finger tight with torque only applied to the nuts.

Also check the calibration of your torque wrench and see the list of torque values in the link below.
https://www.minimania.com/Mini_Torque_Wrench_Settings_597

I have the torque specs chart laminated with my tools. I was following the ARP instructions and stepping up the torque to 25 ft pounds. I put the studs in hand tight and then used the included lube on the top threads before starting the nuts. Wrench worked fine at 16 but unfortunately decided not to 'click' at 25. I already took it to a local machine shop and they said they can have it fixed by tomorrow. I'm just glad it didn't do repairable damage to my new head.

 Posted: Dec 22, 2017 05:58AM
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If you are uncertain of the condition through your own exam, take the head back off and have a machine shop inspect it for you.  If it is OK, they can install HeliCoils in the stripped holes.

The 5/16" rocker studs do not go to 45 ft-lb.  That is only for the 3/8" fasteners.  Also, studs do NOT get torqued in.  They go in finger tight with torque only applied to the nuts.

Also check the calibration of your torque wrench and see the list of torque values in the link below.
https://www.minimania.com/Mini_Torque_Wrench_Settings_597

Doug L.
 Posted: Dec 21, 2017 08:29PM
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Well guys, I ran into a problem. I installed the head the way ARP directed, stepping the torque 15, 30 and then 45. When I went to do the rocker nuts I did the first  torque at 15 and then when I went to do the last at 25 my wrench somehow failed and I blew out the threads on 2 & 3. I'm having trouble including a picture but #3 is stripped out  and #2 has a hairline crack coming out. I stopped before I got to 1 and 4 thankfully. 
Did I screw up the head or can this be fixed? Man this sucks!

 Posted: Dec 11, 2017 02:20PM
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CA
Good,it sounds like you are on your way. I think that a cam that gives you more low grunt (torque) would be more fun than a cam that makes revs. I think it's more fun to pull out of a corner, or pull up a hill than rev the snot out of your motor. Half the time on the road there is too many other cars around,so you send all your time trying to hold your motor back. So you are looking for those quick little shots that make life so sweet..

 Posted: Dec 11, 2017 01:52PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebox
First things,first. Specialist go back to your own space your not welcome here.  Ok! Here is my 2 cents. Tell us a little more about your mini. Do you have S brakes and better shocks? This is what I would do. Get a good head gasket,water pump,thermostat. Degrease your fan( stay with the plastic type) and your rad,get the lime out of your rad. Give the rad a pressure check to see if it is still good.Have someone clean up your head(valve seats) maybe if you think your up to the task you might do a little port clean up. Put the motor back together and have a pro tune up what you have. Now you can drive the mini. Go back to the wish books and put together a plan. You know the motor will by faster and you will drive it harder. Do the brakes and suspension. Collect all of the parts to make a good driving motor/ gear box. Something like a SW-5 and a Calver head. A rebuilt gearbox and good motor mounts. You should then step up to a 2 core rad with a plastic fan.Good oil and Bob is your uncle. Don't go silly and throw parts at your unknown motor, save your money enjoy what you have then build a known motor. You will learn a lot along the way. Looking at the wish books and dreaming may be fun, but I have seen far too many people struggle with over camed motors. Hope this helps, Cheers.
Hey, thanks for the info. My mini has S brakes on the front, high lows with KYB red label that I fitted earlier this year. I have all the parts to upgrade the cooling system (super 2 rad, high flow pump and larger pulley). I decided to go with the Calver head. I figure I now have it and if I need to pull the engine in the future then I can do a cam. I always thought a Kent 266 would be about what I want in a cam, somewhere between mild and wild. Mini Mania also has a custom grind cam that they suggest would be good for a fun street car. I'll certainly do more research once I get to the point of cam swapping.

 Posted: Dec 11, 2017 07:06AM
Total posts: 1276
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CA
First things,first. Specialist go back to your own space your not welcome here.  Ok! Here is my 2 cents. Tell us a little more about your mini. Do you have S brakes and better shocks? This is what I would do. Get a good head gasket,water pump,thermostat. Degrease your fan( stay with the plastic type) and your rad,get the lime out of your rad. Give the rad a pressure check to see if it is still good.Have someone clean up your head(valve seats) maybe if you think your up to the task you might do a little port clean up. Put the motor back together and have a pro tune up what you have. Now you can drive the mini. Go back to the wish books and put together a plan. You know the motor will by faster and you will drive it harder. Do the brakes and suspension. Collect all of the parts to make a good driving motor/ gear box. Something like a SW-5 and a Calver head. A rebuilt gearbox and good motor mounts. You should then step up to a 2 core rad with a plastic fan.Good oil and Bob is your uncle. Don't go silly and throw parts at your unknown motor, save your money enjoy what you have then build a known motor. You will learn a lot along the way. Looking at the wish books and dreaming may be fun, but I have seen far too many people struggle with over camed motors. Hope this helps, Cheers.

 Posted: Dec 8, 2017 09:20PM
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yup , 5000rpm on a mini means gas pedal slammed to the floor, you dont want to do that to your mini. a sane and wise driver don't do Wide open throttle. 

 Posted: Dec 8, 2017 07:21PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h_lankford
how much time do you plan to spend above 5000 rpm?
Not much. Its just a fun backroads car

 Posted: Dec 8, 2017 01:02PM
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how much time do you plan to spend above 5000 rpm?

 Posted: Dec 8, 2017 09:14AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dklawson
Some engines came with flat top pistons. 
A different exhaust may or may not have been done for performance. 
What is unique about the distributor that makes it "performance"?
The pistons are 030 oversized and it has a 123 distributor.

I guess my thought is I can uprate the head now and then whenever the engine needs to come out I can do the cam at that time. Maybe I won't notice much difference with just a head alone until I match it with a cam. Guess I'm looking for feedback from someone that has fitted a 'better' head with a stock cam and what their thoughts were.

 Posted: Dec 8, 2017 04:55AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derramax
(flat top pistons, carb, exhaust, distributor) 

Why would you add performance parts all over the engine and leave the head and cam stock? Save a little more money and do it right.
Some engines came with flat top pistons. 
A different exhaust may or may not have been done for performance. 
What is unique about the distributor that makes it "performance"?

To change the cam you have to pull the engine.  If you change the head, it can get expensive as you noted. 

You may be looking at a previous rebuild with a few bits changed over the years.  Is a head change worth it?  That is a question only you can answer.  If you were happy with the engine the way it was prior to the head gasket blowing, you can have the head checked for flatness and bolt it back on for minimal expense.  If you want to start adding go-fast parts to your car, only you can determine if that fits your budget and your planned use of the car.

Doug L.
 Posted: Dec 7, 2017 07:16PM
 Edited:  Dec 7, 2017 08:13PM
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I got the head off and sure enough the gasket was blown between 2 and 3. The head is stock spec. Would it make sense considering that the engine has been upgraded (flat top pistons, carb, exhaust, distributor) to upgrade the head? The cost is 3x the price of a rebuild for a Calver worked over head. Would the cost be worth the benefit? I feel I would see noticeable gains and research says its one of the best ways to add performance but is it 3x the price worth of performance? I believe the cam to be stock spec as well so what about an uprated head with a stock cam? Hold off on the performance head until it's time for an overhaul and at that time I can upgrade the cam? 
Why would you add performance parts all over the engine and leave the head and cam stock? Save a little more money and do it right.

 Posted: Nov 23, 2017 04:47PM
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Compression's in the 180 area are spot on for a healthy road engine.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Nov 22, 2017 06:46PM
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Picked up a rental compression tester and sure enough my gauge is off. My readings were 182-0-0-176. Now to get the head off and have a look inside.

 Posted: Nov 22, 2017 05:14PM
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if you are experiencing misfire...focus on electricals:engine timing ,distributor timing...stay away from the fuel system, it's not the cause i tellya. don 't be messing with the carburetor. 

 Posted: Nov 22, 2017 12:20PM
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 Posted: Nov 22, 2017 11:45AM
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I talked to the machine shop st Seven Enterprises and they did say the numbers seemed high for an everyday street motor running on pump gas. They said that even though the numbers were high, the fact they were almost identical was a good sign. I'm going to try a different tester and see what numbers I come up with.

 Posted: Nov 22, 2017 10:20AM
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I would try another compression tester.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Nov 22, 2017 06:45AM
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The 280 and 282 seem high, but the ZERO in 2 and 3 indicate your head gasket looks like mine did ...

Found 82 Messages

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