Starting and misfire
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You can supplement your torque wrench with a digital torque adapter. I have the one in the link below. It comes with a calibration certificate. I have compared it to the torque standards we have at work and found it to be very accurate.
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-ARM602-4-Digital-Adapter-4-147-6/dp/B004VYURT0
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The 5/16" rocker studs do not go to 45 ft-lb. That is only for the 3/8" fasteners. Also, studs do NOT get torqued in. They go in finger tight with torque only applied to the nuts.
Also check the calibration of your torque wrench and see the list of torque values in the link below.
https://www.minimania.com/Mini_Torque_Wrench_Settings_597
I have the torque specs chart laminated with my tools. I was following the ARP instructions and stepping up the torque to 25 ft pounds. I put the studs in hand tight and then used the included lube on the top threads before starting the nuts. Wrench worked fine at 16 but unfortunately decided not to 'click' at 25. I already took it to a local machine shop and they said they can have it fixed by tomorrow. I'm just glad it didn't do repairable damage to my new head.
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The 5/16" rocker studs do not go to 45 ft-lb. That is only for the 3/8" fasteners. Also, studs do NOT get torqued in. They go in finger tight with torque only applied to the nuts.
Also check the calibration of your torque wrench and see the list of torque values in the link below.
https://www.minimania.com/Mini_Torque_Wrench_Settings_597
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A different exhaust may or may not have been done for performance.
What is unique about the distributor that makes it "performance"?
I guess my thought is I can uprate the head now and then whenever the engine needs to come out I can do the cam at that time. Maybe I won't notice much difference with just a head alone until I match it with a cam. Guess I'm looking for feedback from someone that has fitted a 'better' head with a stock cam and what their thoughts were.
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Why would you add performance parts all over the engine and leave the head and cam stock? Save a little more money and do it right.
A different exhaust may or may not have been done for performance.
What is unique about the distributor that makes it "performance"?
To change the cam you have to pull the engine. If you change the head, it can get expensive as you noted.
You may be looking at a previous rebuild with a few bits changed over the years. Is a head change worth it? That is a question only you can answer. If you were happy with the engine the way it was prior to the head gasket blowing, you can have the head checked for flatness and bolt it back on for minimal expense. If you want to start adding go-fast parts to your car, only you can determine if that fits your budget and your planned use of the car.
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Why would you add performance parts all over the engine and leave the head and cam stock? Save a little more money and do it right.
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If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Picked up a rental compression tester and sure enough my gauge is off. My readings were 182-0-0-176. Now to get the head off and have a look inside.
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If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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