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 Posted: Aug 13, 2018 09:24AM
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US
Ill echo what some have said here, but 1) you do not need to buy name brand sound deadening and save you $$$ for other things and 2) watch the weight...I even spared doing the inside of the roof or anywhere near engine bay or on rear bench or boot etc - just used it where I think it will make a difference.  Also used the foam under-carpet barrier - you can see more on my blog:
//www.thebluepotato.net/blog/2017/11/report23-now-were-getting-excited/

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Check out my Classic Mini Podcast - Classic Mini Breakdown, www.classicminibreakdown.com
Basil - 1974 Mini 1000 /// THE BLOG: www.thebluepotato.net/blog
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 Posted: Aug 10, 2018 10:59AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SXSMAN

If you live in a warm or hot environment another another product that is great but it is more pricey because you never a compressor and gun to apply is Lizardskin. They not only offer sound deadening but a thermal coating that can reduce the temperature of the interior by 30°. It also can be topcoated to color match your car color. This is the route I'm taking. They also sell angled wands that allow you to apply in blind corners. This might be a better option for a restoration or color change because of the amount of masking. Dynamat is more user friendly/easier to apply.

SXSMAN - I know this thread is a couple years old, but curious to know how your experience went with LizardSkin. My painter is recommending this stuff, he uses it on restorations all the time (everything from VWs to Ferraris). I live in Southern California where it's often 85+ degrees, so anything to reduce the heat along with the noise would be welcomed. 

Plus, I understand you can spray it in all the hidden areas where dynomat would never fit, such as the crevices of the rear parcel bins, the roof under the headliner, and the inside/outside floors. Seems like it's well worth the additional cost, if it works as advertised. 

 Posted: Aug 9, 2018 03:43PM
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Like most the others replied, I also use Dynamat sheets on the floorboard, rear side bins, rear seat and rear deck. On the roof I used lightweight Dynamat sheets with Dynamat foam sheets. I wanted to keep the inside really quiet but did not want to add extra weight especially up high. Worked great for me.

 Posted: Aug 4, 2018 01:29AM
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GB

Welcome Spambot !

Be assured that nobody is going to click on your link and you will soon be deleted by Admin.

Have a nice day.

 Posted: Jun 23, 2016 04:31PM
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Thanks mini4ever.  This guy makes very interesting video.  

 Posted: Jun 22, 2016 05:07PM
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Just  wanna share to you a video on how to lay the sound deadening   Mats into the car.
https://youtu.be/lzQ1CuGg1kE 

And its funny, i just noticed the guy on the video sits with his knees touching each other, hahaha!  ????





Bikini

 Posted: Jun 22, 2016 04:33PM
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US
While Dynamat is a brand name, it is also a specific product. When I say dynamat, I'm referring to aluminum backed butyl rubber sound damping. They sell numerous products including hoodliner which is aluminum reinforced foam. Good stuff actually, but I think should be used in conjunction with other products. Again, I'm more of a full solution kind of guy.

 Posted: Jun 22, 2016 11:19AM
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US
I doubt that you can put 100 sq ft in there. 45 sq ft did my floors back under the bed to the back, plus up the firewall, plus roof (although not doors). I only used 54 sq ft on my Corvair. I use about 1/4" overlap for moisture protection.

I'd like to clarify. There is too much use of brand names and not product types. Hoodliner is different than butyl type deadener.

 Posted: Jun 22, 2016 10:24AM
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US
I can't give you a step by step because it will vary depending on your tactics. If you only intend to use one kind of damping material, then I would go for full coverage. e.g. If you only want to use aluminum backed butyl (like the b-quiet or dynamat), then you should go for as much coverage as you can. If you intend to use a comvination of materials to include vinyl mass and closed cell foam, then you can use much much less dynamat and more foam/vinyl. This is possible because you're not trying to reflect or absorb with the butyl. You're simply using it for damping. 

It takes about 150 - 200sq.ft. to cover all of the inside surfaces of a mini in whatever material you want. It doesn't sound like you'll be using a combination of materials, so I would recommend at a minimum covering the floor, the kick panels and front bulkhead/firewall behind the dash, the rear bulkhead behind the rear seat back, the roof under the headliner, and about 40% coverage on the doors/rear quarter panels

If you want a combination of materials, there is a much more detailed aproach depending on what noises you are trying to eliminate. 

Do I recommend a hood/bonnet kit? 100% absolutely. At a minimum. 4 pieces of damping on the flat pieces between the cross brace. 

 Posted: Jun 22, 2016 04:21AM
 Edited:  Jun 22, 2016 04:59AM
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Hello Mtymous and Dan Moffet and thank you! Is there an article that would explain to me step by step the area where I should put some soundproofing? I'm looking to get some B-Quiet (//www.b-quiet.com/pages/product-comparisons) in the importants places in my car. Look to the pictures above. Would you do so in my '92 SPI Mini ?  Would you install this on the floor ?  As my headliner is good, I won't look underneath.  Would you recommend me to buy an under bonnet kit? Thanks and have a great day!

 Posted: Jun 22, 2016 03:36AM
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CA
MtyMous's outline is spot-on - "damping, absorbing and reflecting". 

Damping: (as in stopping something from vibrating) does not need huge areas, but only patches of material to stop a panel (door skin, roof etc.)  from vibrating. Like a bell, the panels can generate their own noise.

Absorbing: there are two ways sound is absorbed- by heavy mass that absorbs sound from traveling through a panel, wall etc. - or by light "fluffy" material that absorbs airborne sound - fibrous insulation, upholstery, carpet, human bodies etc. (It works better if the bodies are clothed.)

Reflecting: physical barriers to reflect airborne sound (walls, glass etc.) You also have to block the holes, e.g the big one between the carb and the centre-mount instrument pod. The problem with reflecting is that it can keep sound IN as well, so you don't want much reflective interior surfaces. The aluminum foil backing MtyMous mentions works if it faces the sound source - you would put it on the engine side of the firewall. It would reflect some of the sound, absorb a bit (it is a 'soft' metal) and then the mass of black gooey stuff would absorb the sound that is transmitted and damp the car panel. Having the foil on the inside would be counter-productive as it would reflect internal sound back in and prevent the gooey stuff from absorbing it.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jun 21, 2016 07:39PM
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US

Sound deadening can be a complex process honestly. It all depends on what sound you want to isolate or eliminate. If it's road noise or engine/exhaust noise, the butly rubber and aluminum backing solution will only take care of so much. They are mostly for damping vibrations that resonate in the panels. That's a good chunk of the noise on a mini to be honest, but there are other things to consider. 


Damping, Absorbing, and reflecting. Take care of those three things and you'll have a very quiet ride. Consider that most car noise is airborne or structural. Road noise is an example of both (resonance through suspension and into the body, and the sound of the tires hitting the pavement). 

 

I think I did a post on here before about it, but I'll give you the quick and dirty. 

 

Dynamat is great, but if you're going to compare it to other products just look at the specs. Thickness of the butyl rubber and thickness of the aluminum backing. The aluminum backing is part of the reflection, so thicker is better, but too thick and you can't manipulate it to contours. Thick butyl rubber is great, but the cheap stuff is REALLY messy to remove, and this is where the majority of your weight will come from. But as stated before, this stuff isn't made of lead. It's fine to coat the interior panels ESPECIALLY the floors and the roof.

 

I won't kill this thread with details, but there are entire forums dedicated to this topic. Bottom line is the quieter you want it, the heavier and more expensive it will be.

 Posted: Jun 21, 2016 01:15PM
 Edited:  Jun 21, 2016 01:51PM
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So, I took few pictures of the original soundproofing and others around the car. What do you think about this?

 Posted: Jun 21, 2016 01:03PM
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Yes, there is padding in the floor of the 90's Minis. It is more of the mat-type that is heavier and not as effective as Fatmat, but it is there in the low places. I don't know about the roof. Mine did not come with a roof.

 Posted: Jun 21, 2016 12:56PM
 Edited:  Jun 21, 2016 01:00PM
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So, have you ever removed a 90's Mini headliner and carpets to see how much sound proof there is already there? Any pictures?

 Posted: Jun 21, 2016 12:45PM
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i'm all for using sound deadening mats rather than wearing ear plugs, me personally i hate driving cars with lots of noise and vibrations, like an orchestra., might be lose bolts and nuts about to fall apart. if you ride in my mini it's very quiet, but there 's just one tiny noise i can't find, it's near the right side window clamps that hold the window, im gonna investigate further as to where that gadam noise is coming from. if you wear earplugs while driving it's like wearing ear plugs while watching TV.

 Posted: Jun 21, 2016 10:02AM
 Edited:  Jun 21, 2016 10:08AM
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US
 Posted: Jun 21, 2016 08:15AM
 Edited:  Jun 21, 2016 09:12AM
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Hello JiMINI, it seems cheaper than Dynatmat... My mini is 92, so there is already some soundproof. Where would you add some?

 Posted: Jun 21, 2016 08:04AM
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Not cheap but good, and a lot of good information on the site.
//www.quietride.com/web/viewer.html?file=//www.quietride.com/catalogpdfs/mini_cooper_catalog.pdf

 Posted: Jun 21, 2016 07:11AM
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Hello all, have you heard about B-Quiet (//www.b-quiet.com/)?  Where are the most important places to put soundproofing in the car?

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