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 Posted: Oct 6, 2019 07:12AM
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Just reread the thread from start to finish, sad seeing the posts from N.J.  And Robin aka ZippyPinHead twogreat guys, gone far to soon

BIG AL

oldminimover@gmail.com

Niagara Ontario Canada

 Posted: Oct 5, 2019 03:09PM
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That’s a great point, trailering would cause the same problem if chained or cabled down, surprised I never heard of this problem before, I would not have thought of it until the smoke got out.

 Posted: Oct 5, 2019 12:10PM
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One topic that wasn't mentioned was Polarity. If your classic Mini is Positive ground make sure to disconnect the battery completely before hooking a steel A frame between the batteries. Just like hooking up jumper cables between a negative post on the tow vehicle and the positive post on the Mini battery which is inches from the petrol tank. Yeah, think about it...

"Retired:  No Job, No Money, Wife and I!  Will travel anywhere for Minis"

hockey91dad@hotmail.com

 Posted: Oct 5, 2019 08:41AM
 Edited:  Oct 5, 2019 09:50AM
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Image Gallery
Good write up here.

//restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?page=page3689

A good hardware store has steel sleeves in varying lengths. The OD of those are 1". The first set of spacers I made from 1 1/4" aluminum rod that I drilled the center hole for the 1/2" grade 8 bolt. If you go with the steel spacers you may want to put a larger washer between it and the body to spread the load over a larger area. I also noticed how small the area on the back side is for a nut & socket so I added a 1/2" spacer before the nut. Double nutted just to feel good it also.

You want to use the shortest spacer possible to minimize side load flex.

"How can anything bigger be mini?"

 Posted: Oct 5, 2019 05:22AM
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How does the harbor freight towbar mounts to mini? Do you happen to have any images?
thanks in advanced,

valentin

 Posted: Oct 14, 2013 11:34AM
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Awesome man, glad it was useful!  

 Posted: Oct 14, 2013 11:01AM
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I wanted to thank everyone for their input on this thread.

I used the instructions from Restoration-Mini to make the tow bar, they worked great!

I remembered to take the parking brake off, kept it out of gear, did not lock steering, and attached all safety chains. 

Towed a total of 600 miles this weekend with no problems!

'67 Mini Cooper van conversion. 

 Posted: Oct 4, 2013 01:49PM
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Sometimes you just have to be confident that you did all your safety checks, because once your rolling you never see what's behind you. 

Pat   azbornmini@gmail.com

  //www.facebook.com/classicminisofarizona?ref=tn_tnmn

                            

 

 Posted: Oct 2, 2013 09:06AM
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Have flat towed from NW MS to S Md. Recently from S Md to S Va. No problems at all. Only issue from Md to Va was the truckbed was full of stuff. I could not see the mini behind me. Everything went fine, but not being able to see the mini was disturbing.

Take the advice of the others with in neutral, checking car at stops, etc. I will add that both times I used the magnetic lights on the roof (with the paper type gaskets between lights and paint) with no problems, scratches, etc. This was at max speeds of 65-70 MPH. Make sure you check that the correct light is on the correct side. I have seen other people use these where their lights were reversed on the towed vehicle. Pretty dangerous turning right with the towed vehicle lights showing left turn.

 

Ignorence is bliss til someone says you are wrong.

 Posted: Oct 2, 2013 09:03AM
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Exactly, extra rigidity.  Also by keeping the bolts short as possible will decrease the chance for failure due to any side loads. That's why my brace is behind the license plate bracket.  Always use grade 8 and unless in a pinch drill out to 1/2 iinch.

 

 Posted: Oct 2, 2013 07:52AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wodsworth
Quote:
Originally Posted by 94touring

//restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?page=page3689

Is there a reason you used the angle iron all the way across the front instead of just attaching the brackets directly? 

You need that piece for strength and rigidity without it you would be putting excessive forces on the two bolts especially when turning. BTW when you buy the larger/longer bolts to attach the towbar make sure you get grade 5 or harder still grade 8 ones and make the spacer tubes as short as you can without interfeering with the lower valance. The Harbor Freight tow bar works well but is a bit of an over kill and when on sale can be bought for $60 plus the safety chains, hard to make for that price imo. I wired my brake and running lights into the main harness where it enters the bulkhead with larger bullet connectors from British wiring.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Oct 2, 2013 07:39AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94touring

//restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?page=page3689

Is there a reason you used the angle iron all the way across the front instead of just attaching the brackets directly? 

'67 Mini Cooper van conversion. 

 Posted: Oct 2, 2013 05:12AM
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I've towed I don't know how many thousands of miles and only issue I had was my rotten pickup at the time didn't hold up well where you bolt to the subby.  Had it not had a crack on the subby and rotten metal around it, it would have been fine.

 Posted: Oct 2, 2013 01:37AM
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I flat towed mine 500 miles from Atlanta to Virginia, and will be towing it back next week after the mini 54. Full size pick-up with a V8 so like it's not even back there.

I did paint the ignition key black so that when it is in the car at stops it not shining chrome.

"How can anything bigger be mini?"

 Posted: Oct 1, 2013 08:05PM
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Having flat towed a mini from Md to Chicago and back I would take much of the above with a grain of salt.  The Mini sat quite happily behind the tow car at 70mph plus..  And still driving quite happily 20 years later...

Just don't back up.

Cheers, Ian

PS Disc pads ALWAYS sit pretty much in contact with the rotor... nothing to do with flat towing..

 Posted: Oct 1, 2013 07:05PM
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Yikes Hunter they both sound like they could have ended very badly indeed, glad they didn't.  Tow dolly for me.

The best way of all is NJ's avatar.

 Posted: Oct 1, 2013 06:51PM
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A 1962 Austin Mini Countryman was flat towed from Sacramento to the Canadian border...and a wheel fell off at the Canada customs office right after crossing the border.   (I own that Mini...well parts of that Mini...but did NOT flat tow it to Canada)

A Cooper S was flat towed to Colorado "a few years ago" (more than13 years ago) and the pads contacted the rotor causing heat and oh my, what have we done...U-Haul the rest of the way.

Take out the brake pads, put it in neutral,...good luck.

 Posted: Oct 1, 2013 03:56PM
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nobody mentioned this so far. if using a "A" frame tow bar , the front bolts should be changed to  1/2 . this means drilling the subframe holes out and making spacers to accept the tow bar.

 Posted: Oct 1, 2013 01:54PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Air2air

What about one of those 2-wheel trailers?  

two wheel tow dolly classic mini

That's a tow dolly. Tim Bosse on this message bored makes an excellent Mini-specific dolly.
I've moved Minis around with the big three methods. Here's my take on it:

Tow Bars vs. Tow Dollies vs. Trailer for towing a Mini or Moke

Tow Bar (A Frame)-All four wheels of the towed vehicle are on the ground.
More wear ‘n tear on the towed vehicle’s wheel bearings/tires.
If something happens to the suspension/bearings, you’re pretty much stuck
Cannot be reversed.
At times, after a sharp turn, the front wheels can oscillate back ‘n forth until you slow or stop.
No brakes.
You have to either hang temporary lights or re-wire the towed vehicle for lights.
Tow Bar (A frame) is easily stowed when not in use.

Tow Dolly-Front wheels of towed vehicle are off the ground.
More wear ‘n tear on the towed vehicle’s rear wheel bearings/tires.
If something happens to the rear suspension/bearings, you’re pretty much stuck.
Cannot be reversed.
No brakes. (at least on the tow dolly I owned)
Tow dolly is a bit more bother to stow when not in use.

Trailer-All four wheels of the towed vehicle are off the ground.
Even more wear ‘n tear on the towing vehicle.
If something happens to the trailer’s bearings/suspension, you’re pretty much stuck.
Can be reversed.
Can, and should, have brakes.
Stowing a trailer when not in use can be an issue.


 

 Posted: Oct 1, 2013 11:54AM
 Edited:  Oct 1, 2013 11:55AM
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What about one of those 2-wheel trailers?  

two wheel tow dolly classic mini

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