Elf brakes are break'n mah balls...

Upon further inspection it seems the right rear WC only has movement on one side, and the brake pads all around are due to be replaced. After trying several of the suggestions ITT the brakes are now firm after a single pump. I believe with new brake pads and a fully operational rear WC, I'll be able to fully adjust the brakes and the problem will be solved. 

 I also inspected the clevis pin, and there is no sign of ovaling there. I also had help in all this from a much more experienced mechanic (my father, Bclif here of the forums) and the master cylinder checks out as well. 

 

Thanks for all the helpful advice! 

The other "fix" you might want to try is putting your location in your profile. That way, someone who is near you may want to help.

The pedal travel after pumping points towards problems inside the master cylinder.  Before delving into that though, have you confirmed that the shoes are on in their correct position?  You'll notice that the friction material doesn't cover all of the steel shoe and that it is relieved more towards one end.  The position of the friction material is important in obtaining a firm pedal.

Doug L.

 As stated sounds like you need to inspect EVERYTHING. Worn clevis pins are a serious problem. I have also seen one car that the front adjusters for twin leading had no tension so you would adjust them and they would work their back to no adjustment. What kind of fluid are you using? Are the wheel cylinders the proper size? I am guessing you know how to properly adjust the rear brakes?

Spelling errors may be beer related

Multiple pumps on the pedal to get pressure to stop is a sure sign of a brake MC that needs rebuilt (at least in my book).  The internal seals around the piston are leaking allowing brake fluid past them - it takes several pumps for enough fluid to finally equalize behind the piston and give you enough pressure to actually operate the pistons in the wheel cylinder bores.

Only remedy is an MC rebuild.  I had this same problem in my van - it only got worse until finally no amount of pumping would get it to stop.

Steve

You will learn more about Minis by driving one for 30 minutes than if you read every book written about them.

 

Important bit in scooperman's post -- make sure the shoes (and the springs) are installed correctly. For the first time last week I had a car in my garage that had the brakes worked on previously (not by me) that actually had the shoes and springs all in the correct positions! (Of course one slave was leaking and the wheel cylinder spring clips were installed backwards.)

Also, measure the inside diameter of the drums. If they've been turned too much no amount of work will solve your problem short of new drums.

If the drums are very worn, the curvature of new shoes will not match the drum, so even when the adjuster has one end of the shoe touching,  the wheel cylinder needs a lot of travel to bring the middle part of the shoe into contact with the drum.  Pull all four drums.  If they all appear to have good friction surfaces, measure the inside diameter.  Put the two least-worn drums, and your four thickest brake shoes, on the front brakes, put your most-warn drums and shoes on the back.  Double check that you have the leading/trailing orientation correct, then try Se7en's lockup adjustment to check the master.  If the pedal travel is short and not spongy, then the master is OK.

No mention of rebuilding the master cylinder , nor of the condition of the clevis rod on the master or the clevis pin.  I've seen the rod hole badly ovaled and the clevis pin heavily scored.  Huge loss of pedal action if those two items are not fresh.

Before doing an sugery on the master, though, adjust the brakes all around so they're all locked down - then see what your pedal does. If you're still pumping with that adjustment, the master likely needs attention.

SE7EN

Since I bought my Elf over a year ago, the brakes have never been working to their full potential. I've always had to pump them up before any drive, and then give them a few pumps before they would brake effectively whenever I wanted to stop. I've gone through and replaced all the wheel cylinders that were leaking, so that is no longer adding to the problem. I also found that both the hoses that connect the leading wheel cylinder to the juncture at the bottom of the subframe were collapsed inside or seriously fouled with gunk, and both have been replaced. I've also replaced the hard line that wraps around the front of the subframe and connects the left side brakes to the break light switch junction. All the breaks have been thoroughly bled and the adjusters adjusted so there is light resistance when turning the wheels. When I got the car, the breaks were spongy, but now with all this work they are hard, but still require multiple pumps to brake effectively. When fully pumped up, the pedal travels half way to the floor before they get hard and start braking.

 Any suggestions on what to try next? I'd really like to be able to drive this car on a regular basis again...