No oil pressure after engine out
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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My conclusions in this fiasco of in and out and in and out engine; I packed the pump with grease and it didn't seem to change anything. I took the pressure plunger out, polished it and put it back in but it didn't seem to help. I shortened my oil pump bolts to ensure proper oil pump fitting, but it didn't seem to need it. I inspected the O ring and gasket and think that may have been the issue, but really I think I just needed to get the car running and up to idle speed for the oil to fill the lines, the oil cooler and get back to the engine (the screw on filter was filled already). I was under the impression that the starter would have enough revolution speed to build pressure. I also thought I should see high pressure oil spray from both the oil pressure gauge line and the oil cooler line. It NEVER did; just a modest stream from the oil cooler line.
Things I learned from this event. 1) This forum is STILL the best place for any moderate mechanic to solve problems. 2) Never keep your engine hoisted at the 'optimum removal angle' when fitting it back on to the trans. I was able to push the engine to the correct angle, but I was less accurate. That caused my gasket to slip and potentially my O ring to foul. 3) Just because the gauge doesn't move doesn't mean it won't. I was just scared to hurt the engine. 4) You can tap the Hardy Spicer bolts into the stub axles to make both removal and installation of the engine MUCH easier. 5) snug the clutch slave back bolt before you fully install the engine. 6) reposition the hoist chain after the engine is in to ease final positioning. 7) Don't forget to remove or reinstall your speedo line. What a drag. 8) Lastly, when you hear that 'whine', stop and replace your idle gear bearings.
What I gained from this event. My starter wore out (it was original) but turning the engine over so long was the last straw. On the plus side I found a guy on Craigslist with a complete yet disassembled MG1500 motor and trans. The ad was up for about a month and he had no idea what the parts were; they came with the house he bought. I drove out the night my starter bushings died and got all the parts (including two starters that fit and had the same amount of teeth) for $120. He would have taken my first offer of $100 but I felt bad. The boxes yielded a distributor with electronic ignition (still in box) a new set of wires (in box) and all the pieces to build a MG 1500 motor. I have a 73 Midget that may be getting an upgrade.
Thanks again for all the help. My plunger wasn't stuck, my oil cooler had no visible particles in the tanks (then cleaned), my idler end float is .006" or less and I'm 99% of the way to good. Now to get my brand new clutch disc and diaphragm to fully disengage. Always something.
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Don't think so - the relief valve is at the end of the primary oil gallery which is after the filter.
If the filter bypass is stuck open then yes, you could throw crap into the bearings, but you'd also have oil pressure.
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Another reliable way to tell that you have no oil pressure when you have no oil pressure gauge is that the engine stops.
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Side note: when not getting primed, I have been known to over fill the engine with oil, crank it over awhile without plugs, then do an oil change getting the oil to the correct level. I thought this is easier than trying to fill oil in the banjo hole, while half the oil runs down the side of the block.
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Side note: when not getting primed, I have been known to over fill the engine with oil, crank it over awhile without plugs, then do an oil change getting the oil to the correct level. I thought this is easier than trying to fill oil in the banjo hole, while half the oil runs down the side of the block.
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Can you just stick a magnetic pickup tool into the hole to retrieve the valve
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
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I expect the oil cooler, which I feel is not needed on a mini used with modern oil, is full of metal particles, and if not removed and either replaced or professionally cleaned, will be the source of the car's next catastrophic failure.
There is some merit to your plan to have this car complete so you can attend to the other cars, however from an economic perspective it will be cheaper in the long run to just ship the drivetrain off to have it competently rebuilt at market rates.
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