Free Shipping

800-946-2642
Shop by Car
   Forum Width:     Forum Type: 

Found 54 Messages

Previous Set of Pages 1 | 2 | 3

 Posted: May 24, 2017 05:42AM
Total posts: 13205
Last post: Jul 21, 2017
Member since:Jan 22, 2003
CA
Ship a pair my way then Steve.....happy to help you clear some space

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: May 24, 2017 03:24AM
Total posts: 3394
Last post: Jul 14, 2017
Member since:Oct 8, 2011
US
SU's are a simple carb and can do just about anything required. I recently picked up several HIF 38s of the four bolt mount type. I have a bucket full of the MGB HIF 38 two bolt mount type. Plan is to rebuild the four bolt ones to replace HS 4s on 998 single carb cars and I'm setting up a pair of HIF 38s to run on a 1400 CC GT engine. If someone has a couple of HIF 44s I could use them also. I may be a little over stock on twin 1 1/4" SU sets. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: May 23, 2017 08:36AM
Total posts: 26
Last post: Jun 20, 2017
Member since:May 9, 2017
Found the original online sale for my car. The description reads:
It has aftermarket intake manifold and DUAL SU carburetor for better breathing.

 Posted: May 20, 2017 12:06PM
Total posts: 13205
Last post: Jul 21, 2017
Member since:Jan 22, 2003
CA
Twins are fantastic if sorted right and the right needle. Not hard to tune if they need a tweak.... then just leave them alone
and yes.... they look cool... lol
Great response at the low end
I imagine your exhaust is not stock as the factory intake/exhaust manifold will not accept twins..... maybe previous owner cut off the intake portion

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: May 20, 2017 08:07AM
Total posts: 7043
Last post: Jul 21, 2017
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
Quote:
Originally Posted by mur
Twin carbs is a nice surprise. 

Saying that twin 1 1/4" SUs are inferior or superior to a single 1 1/2" SU pretty much implies that you have a rolling road dyno and nearly endless hours to sort things out one way or the other.

I'll start the debate off:

TWIN CARBS LOOK BETTER.

Since no one can form a decent argument against that, I'll let you get yourself copies of Vizard's two books, How to Modify Your Mini and Tuning BL's A series Engine, and you can learn about all of the factors that influence performance. 

Full disclosure: As I write this at a table in a coffee shop I am looking out at the mini I drove here, which has a very strong 998 breathing through a single 1 1/2" SU. It is awesome, and what you have is also awesome.
Ahhh !!!! the bling factor, almost forgot that mur

If in doubt, flat out . Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

 Posted: May 20, 2017 07:55AM
Total posts: 26
Last post: Jun 20, 2017
Member since:May 9, 2017
Quote:
Originally Posted by mur
Twin carbs is a nice surprise. 

Saying that twin 1 1/4" SUs are inferior or superior to a single 1 1/2" SU pretty much implies that you have a rolling road dyno and nearly endless hours to sort things out one way or the other.

I'll start the debate off:

TWIN CARBS LOOK BETTER.

Since no one can form a decent argument against that, I'll let you get yourself copies of Vizard's two books, How to Modify Your Mini and Tuning BL's A series Engine, and you can learn about all of the factors that influence performance. 

Full disclosure: As I write this at a table in a coffee shop I am looking out at the mini I drove here, which has a very strong 998 breathing through a single 1 1/2" SU. It is awesome, and what you have is also awesome.
Thanks. I'll make sure it's all sorted. I've only had the car two weeks, and I'm coming from a 78 Beetle (which I still own), so I have a lot to learn. Totally capable, just need to do my homework. 

 Posted: May 20, 2017 07:37AM
mur
Total posts: 5623
Last post: Jul 20, 2017
Member since:Nov 12, 1999
Twin carbs is a nice surprise. 

Saying that twin 1 1/4" SUs are inferior or superior to a single 1 1/2" SU pretty much implies that you have a rolling road dyno and nearly endless hours to sort things out one way or the other.

I'll start the debate off:

TWIN CARBS LOOK BETTER.

Since no one can form a decent argument against that, I'll let you get yourself copies of Vizard's two books, How to Modify Your Mini and Tuning BL's A series Engine, and you can learn about all of the factors that influence performance. 

Full disclosure: As I write this at a table in a coffee shop I am looking out at the mini I drove here, which has a very strong 998 breathing through a single 1 1/2" SU. It is awesome, and what you have is also awesome.

 Posted: May 20, 2017 06:52AM
Total posts: 26
Last post: Jun 20, 2017
Member since:May 9, 2017
Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
Your car would have come stock with a single HS4 1.5" inch carb. Twin carbs with the right exhaust will add more mid range torque on a small bore 998cc engine. The people that they are a pita are the ones who probably never took the time to sort and set them up correctly. The biggest issue with the twin HS2's is throttle shaft wear which results in a lean mixture and high idle but the over sized shafts and anything else needed carb related is available from Joe Curto in NY. They are more work than a single SU but imo well worth it if they are in good condition and set up correctly.
Gotcha, thank you! I'll have to take some shots of my exhaust to see if it too has been replaced. Will also have to do some homework and check them and make sure they are setup properly. 

 Posted: May 20, 2017 06:01AM
Total posts: 7043
Last post: Jul 21, 2017
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
Your car would have come stock with a single HS4 1.5" inch carb. Twin carbs with the right exhaust will add more mid range torque on a small bore 998cc engine. The people that they are a pita are the ones who probably never took the time to sort and set them up correctly. The biggest issue with the twin HS2's is throttle shaft wear which results in a lean mixture and high idle but the over sized shafts and anything else needed carb related is available from Joe Curto in NY. They are more work than a single SU but imo well worth it if they are in good condition and set up correctly.

If in doubt, flat out . Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

 Posted: May 20, 2017 04:54AM
Total posts: 26
Last post: Jun 20, 2017
Member since:May 9, 2017
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spitz

I'm guessing the arrow means pointing that way.

If it's a Jap spec car and it's recently arrived etc., you need to swap out your headlights

It was imported over a year ago, just wanted to confirm it hadn't already been done before I just swap them. 

Again, it doesn't get dark until almost 9pm this time of year, and I don't plan on being out at night with it, but I will work on getting them changed asap. 

Appreciate everyones help.

Next question:
Does anyone know if the 90 Japanese spec came with twin carbs? Mine has them and I'm having a hard time finding any info on what would have been stock. I found this info based on my engine number:
Engine number
99HE22 114894
- 998 A+ block with center locating tang in main cap
- Dished pistons with press fit wrist pin, lead-free
- 998cc

I've done a little research on whether or not twin carbs are an improvement over the single carb on this engine, and the reviews seem mixed. 

 Posted: May 18, 2017 06:43PM
Total posts: 13205
Last post: Jul 21, 2017
Member since:Jan 22, 2003
CA

I'm guessing the arrow means pointing that way.

If it's a Jap spec car and it's recently arrived etc., you need to swap out your headlights

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: May 18, 2017 05:28AM
mur
Total posts: 5623
Last post: Jul 20, 2017
Member since:Nov 12, 1999
I think the E11 means they bias to the left. 

That is not what you want.

You want lamps that say DOT. 

 Posted: May 18, 2017 03:22AM
Total posts: 26
Last post: Jun 20, 2017
Member since:May 9, 2017
Here is a photo of the front of my headlight. Both are the same, the arrows point to the left. 

https://goo.gl/photos/3QK4NxyFt82ZNmZo8

 Posted: May 16, 2017 01:34PM
Total posts: 1610
Last post: Jul 21, 2017
Member since:May 1, 2007
US
I've shared this a couple of times before, but worth sharing again. This is a really good article on headlight aiming.
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html

The tech articles on the same site are also worth reading, especially this one on how to easily turn your boring old side markers into double-duty turn signal flashers.
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/markerflash/markerflash.html

Like This

 Posted: May 16, 2017 02:31AM
Total posts: 7043
Last post: Jul 21, 2017
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
I converted mine and wanted the flat lens H4's but could not find any with a pilot/side light in them. I used an early Morris Minor/Triumph clear flat lens with a sidelight and turn signal combination in one unit along with LED's for every light except the headlamps. Fitting was easy no extra drilling just re routed the side lamp wire to its new location. 

If in doubt, flat out . Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

 Posted: May 15, 2017 03:10PM
mur
Total posts: 5623
Last post: Jul 20, 2017
Member since:Nov 12, 1999
As previously mentioned, Sylvania sealed beams with Halogen bulbs are available at any heavy duty-truck parts supplier and are inexpensive. They work as well as fixtures that cost far more. 

I have them on my own Japanese Market car, which powers the lights via relays and has a large alternator. The car has excellent light output exactly where it is needed.

note the DOT on lights for North America.

 Posted: May 15, 2017 02:44PM
Total posts: 83
Last post: Jul 17, 2017
Member since:Jan 28, 2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRiley
Quote:
Originally Posted by fMix
 I have the WIPAC Quadoptic H4 kit.  Very easy install and very nice.  The cutoff line is excellent with the halogen bulbs provided.  I put an H4 LED kit in and the light throw isn't as good.  It is very spotty due to the nature of the LED bulbs.
I've looked at LED headlights, and the technology is getting really good, but still super pricey. But I would stay away from anything claiming to retrofit or adapt to old tech. The LED "bulbs" just can't be expected to work as well with lenses and reflectors designed for incandescent or halogen bulbs.
I agree LEDs are getting better, but not quite there for the plug and play bulb replacements.  I got a gift card from work, so I figured why not give it a go...  I added replica Harley Davidson LED Daymaker 4.5 inch passing lights for my fogs and have a very good light output now.  They fill in the blanks nicely.  My next step will be to find a Daymaker 7 inch replica with good reviews and still affordable.  I'm not paying $500 for headlights.  Lucky for us Jeeps and Harleys use the same 7 inch housings, so plenty of testers out there.



Google headlight cutoff line and look at the pictures.  You will see exactly what to look for.  Most of the ones I found were for LHD USA requirements.  They are lower on the left and move up on the right.  My original headlights said "for left hand drive" on the glass.  You might be able to just look and see without any extra work.

 Posted: May 15, 2017 11:53AM
Total posts: 7149
Last post: Jul 22, 2017
Member since:Aug 14, 2002
CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by mergedown
Considering my car has been in the US for a year or two, what is the simplest way for me to determine if they have already been swapped? I can get an up close image of what I have later today.
At night, drive up and stop the mini about 10-20 feet from a blank, light coloured wall.

Turn on you headlamps on low beam. Observe where the 'hot" spot is on each - if you can't see separate hot spots, move closer to the wall. Observe the shape of the light pattern. Modern headlamps generally provide an illumination pattern with a horizontal top that angles up to one side. Headlamps for right-hand roads angle up to the right, providing roadside illumination. If yours don't you need to replace them.

Your headlamps should be aimed so that the farther back from the wall you go, the top of the horizontal part of the beam should gradually be lower on the wall. The vertical central axis should also not move or drift very slightly to the right. 

Switch from low beam to high beam. The high beam hot spot should be slightly higher and to the left than the low beam spot. This should give better straight-ahead illumination. If it moves up and o the right, you need to change them. The high beam illumination should be pretty much horizontal.

Or you can take it to a shop for proper alignment.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: May 15, 2017 10:31AM
Total posts: 13205
Last post: Jul 21, 2017
Member since:Jan 22, 2003
CA

Also....yours will have the "pilot" light...or park light right inside the headlight ( just below the main bulb )

I replaced my Jap headlights with the ones offered on this site for right hand traffic
http://www.minimania.com/part/13H3471A/Classic-Austin-Mini-Sealed-Beam-7-Headlamp-Headlight-With-Pilot-Light


 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: May 15, 2017 08:58AM
Total posts: 26
Last post: Jun 20, 2017
Member since:May 9, 2017
Considering my car has been in the US for a year or two, what is the simplest way for me to determine if they have already been swapped? I can get an up close image of what I have later today.

Found 54 Messages

Previous Set of Pages 1 | 2 | 3