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 Posted: Mar 13, 2017 11:24AM
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Dan:
I am retired, so we can easily work something out.
My email should be in the profile.
Terry

 Posted: Mar 13, 2017 11:22AM
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Hello All,

Thanks for the replies, very much appreciated (and this is why I like the Mini/MINI community - lots of good folks!)

I've tried the soak in vinegar and use my noodly arms, a breaker bar and a impact gun. No joy in Dan land... Did notice thought that after I got the thing semi clean, the threads are reasonably munged on the line ports! Can't get any sort of torque on the connections... Yay! Helicoil time!!

@Terry, Would love to meet up with you and hopefully take a look at the valve you have. I work in Milpitas (237 and 880). Let me know when/where is good for you (my email is in my profile - tried emailing you but got a bounce back)

Again, thanks to everybody!

Daniel

 Posted: Mar 12, 2017 07:29PM
mur
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I used to use phosphoric acid to pull rust off. Molasses interests me but Rick's climate is more appropriate - I should mail him some brake master cylinders to add to his mix. Whatever chemical you use, it is still a chemical and it continues to be reactionary so if it is in the garage it can damage things, and if it is in a garden shed vermin can get to it. 

 Posted: Mar 12, 2017 06:54PM
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Mur,
ever done the vinegar soak for bare metal?

 Posted: Mar 12, 2017 07:45AM
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Image Gallery
1 part molasses to 3-5 parts water (depending on the extent of rust).  Soak a day or so remove, rinse with water, inspect, put back in...you will soon get a handle on how your mix is working, several days, a week maybe or more.

The head I built up for the 1293 was hot tanked by the machine shop twice...I was not happy.  A week in molasses/water, it was clean.

Head got skimmed face, hardened exhaust seats, new bronze guides, new valves/duplex springs...

Remember - all grease/oil etc. must be removed first, paint too if overtop of rust.

 Posted: Mar 11, 2017 08:16PM
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Sorry for the hijack-Rick what is the molasses/water mix ratio?

 Posted: Mar 11, 2017 07:30PM
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Dan:
If you wish to try a used one, I am pretty sure I have one that "worked when removed."
I replaced the one on our tin wagon Traveller. But it has been off the car for about three years, so I am not sure of the status.

I am in Fremont and I know we met before somewhere.

Terry

 Posted: Mar 11, 2017 05:34PM
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It looks like a supply issue.

The adjustable version is available:
//www.minimania.com/part/21A1774/Classic-Austin-Mini-Brake-Proportioning-Valve-All-Mk1-Thru-1969

If this is what you need.

 Posted: Mar 11, 2017 10:13AM
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What are they talking about? I was surprised they are out of stock but I should have been more surprised you could buy them as long as you could. I haven't seen a kit for one in years, think I got a couple from Mad Matt in OZ years ago when he was here every day. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Mar 10, 2017 09:24PM
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Yes.

 Posted: Mar 10, 2017 08:31PM
mur
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Wouldn't an Elf have a rear pressure limiting valve and not the inertia type?

 Posted: Mar 10, 2017 05:04PM
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CA
Yes, I bought 2 of the NOS items...both were in fact used and in ratty shape.  Opened them up, soaked in molasses/water bath to de-rust. Clean face on the copper sealing washer.

Key thing is for the shuttle valve to be free. (when the ball rolls up the ramp it presses on the shuttle reducing the flow of fluid to the rear)

PHOTO: after molasses/water bath & rinse, the ball is pitted but the shuttle valve (pointing at the ball) is free

 Posted: Mar 10, 2017 04:51PM
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open it up and clean it out. It's just a ball and ramp.  

soak it in vinegar if it's rusted stuck closed. For the ball, you can find a new ball bearing plated same size.

 Posted: Mar 10, 2017 03:02PM
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Hello All,

I'm in the long drawn out process of restoring an old Elf, and find myself in need of a rear bias valve (for single line cars). Mine is permanently rusted closed (i.e. no fluid transfer = no rear brakes!)

Apparently, these are no longer available from our hosts or from the many other online classic Mini parts suppliers.

My question...... Would any one have one they are willing to part with (for a reasonable sum)? Or have a suggestion for an aftermarket replacement?

Many thanks in advance! Oh, and I am located in San Jose, California

Cheers! Daniel