Created by: Found 32 Messages
Posted:
May 30, 2017
05:19PM
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Total posts: 169
Last post: Sep 18, 2020 Member since:Jan 28, 2014
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OK, so my final findings for the danged stupid cat temp sensor is just strip the wires and connect them together. Beep went away, car drives normal, no lights or beeps in the dash.
Hopefully this helps future JDM Mini owners with the cat temp sensor. I really wanted to try and get the sensor out unharmed but that didn't happen. Now I have a cat deleted SPI with the sensor cut and wires connected and taped off. Never have to worry about it again.
Hopefully this helps future JDM Mini owners with the cat temp sensor. I really wanted to try and get the sensor out unharmed but that didn't happen. Now I have a cat deleted SPI with the sensor cut and wires connected and taped off. Never have to worry about it again.
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Total posts: 169
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I finally got all the parts to start my exhaust install. Began taking sections off last night. The temp sensor was extremely stubborn. I had to cut the rusty old junk exhaust pipe to get the CAT and sensor free enough to get easier access. Unfortunately the wire broke off the sensor... I started the car with the CAT and everything back not installed and sure enough I have a constant ring tone up by the keys, I assume it is because the sensor. More research and fiddling will follow throughout the week.
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That is what the factory used. It is a plastic add on switch panel with a red light that has EXH on it.
Why don't you remove the sensor and heat it up with a blow torch to see if a light in the dash lights up. Post a picture of your dash.
Why don't you remove the sensor and heat it up with a blow torch to see if a light in the dash lights up. Post a picture of your dash.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Total posts: 169
Last post: Sep 18, 2020 Member since:Jan 28, 2014
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After locating inside the car, I have not been able to trace much further. The best I have found so far is that it goes up the firewall behind the AC fan. I pulled the carpet back, but the sound insulation is in the way. What is the red exh light?
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Where does it go to inside the car, onto the normal plastic bracket under the dash rail with the red exh light? I don't remember seeing one run through the floor grommet.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Total posts: 169
Last post: Sep 18, 2020 Member since:Jan 28, 2014
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Image Gallery
#1 is the sensor just after cat
#2 is a wider view of sensor showing wire going up and over cat via heatshield
#3 shows the wire continuing to left side front foot area
#4 shows the wire going into the car
#5 is a very bad picture of the O2 sensor on the header where it should be.
Edited:
Jan 27, 2017
01:45PM
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Total posts: 169
Last post: Sep 18, 2020 Member since:Jan 28, 2014
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Hopefully the pictures show up in order. Going from the sensor behind the cat, to under the passenger (left) foot area near the firewall. And the final picture is a very terrible shot of my O2 sensor in the header, like it should be.
Oh crap, the files are too large. I will have to resize then post.
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Total posts: 128
Last post: Sep 20, 2022 Member since:Sep 6, 1999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fMix
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Meanie
I had removed the Cat on my JDM Import 97 Mayfair 1275 Automatic and drove it for years with no ill effects. It did get a bit louder but not noticeably so.
they assured me that they had done this on many other minis before.
No check engine light came on either
if everything seems under control,. then you're not going fast enough
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The only ones i have seen connected downstream are the capillary type ones not a wired electrical one. The one with wires is usually found in the exhaust manifold (upstream) and it is an oxygen sensor. It sounds like yours may have been retrofitted at some time or maybe was a requirement when it was in a certain area in Japan. If it is not wired into the factory harness it will not throw a code.
Post a picture of what you have inside and underneath the car.
Post a picture of what you have inside and underneath the car.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Total posts: 169
Last post: Sep 18, 2020 Member since:Jan 28, 2014
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Mostly I'm just worried about some check engine light, or the motor not running right because I decided to cut off a sensor. So I figure, I'll just keep it in place. What makes me wonder is since you have only seen it on the smaller engines and I cannot find the connector for the sensor. To me it looks like someone routed a 6ft long sensor cord through the firewall, through a hole at the front passenger feet and along the under side of the car to the exhaust. But as it shows on the Mini Spares link the sensor is just a short looking wire with a plug right there.
Mostly I don't want to cut the wire without knowing what will happen. I want to unplug it as a test first.
//www.minispares.com/catalogues/classic/Classic~Mechanical~Parts~Manual/Fuel~~Exhaust/Exhausts~for~all~injection~cars.aspx?2~18~179
Mostly I don't want to cut the wire without knowing what will happen. I want to unplug it as a test first.
//www.minispares.com/catalogues/classic/Classic~Mechanical~Parts~Manual/Fuel~~Exhaust/Exhausts~for~all~injection~cars.aspx?2~18~179
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Waste of time and money if you do that imo. As your Mini has a heat sensor for the converter/exhaust temps and you are removing the converter why on earth would you want to keep the sensor in place when you have no converter heat to sense ? Also as it was only required on Japanese spec Mini's and nowhere else in the world it was obviously a Japanese regulation requirement at the time not a necessary one. As a matter of fact none of the later model J spec Mini's that i have seen have them.
Like i stated before i have only seen sensors on the earlier small bore Mini's.
Like i stated before i have only seen sensors on the earlier small bore Mini's.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Isn't it a CAT Overheat sensor? therefore you could just cut it off or zip tie it out of the way underneath somewhere?
Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch
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Total posts: 169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Meanie
I had removed the Cat on my JDM Import 97 Mayfair 1275 Automatic and drove it for years with no ill effects. It did get a bit louder but not noticeably so.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fMix
Quote:
Originally Posted by CooperTune
I'm currently building a SPI power unit and have been working with Nick Swift. Nick supplied the camshaft and ported the cyl. head. Even with a Cooper ECU if we can find one expected output will only be in the 80/85 HP range. Spec is bored .020 with dished pistons .020 piston to deck. Swift SW 5 injected camshaft, beautiful Swift cyl. head. I assemble and balance crank with Cooper S two pc. damper and light steel flywheel with uprated pressure plate. Talking with Nick I found in spite of claiming 100 HP the Cooper injected cars rarely produced as much as 80 hp on dyno. I'm also working a new tranny which will allow highway speed 70 mph at 3000 RPM.
Just a though, I have been rebuilding a bunch of DAM 5626 trannys this year and stripped my fifth this week. To my surprise this one was under a 998. The third motion shaft double ball bearing had fractured ball spacers, worn third motion shaft spigot and lay shaft. And for the fifth time the diff. ball bearing fell off the diff cage. Shift forks and synchros worn but the spider gears and diff. pin not so bad. I have been buying cross pin diffs. and like them for a rebuild. The SPI is getting is getting a Quaife posi as well as REM and Cryo treatment for the gears. I have had good results reducing SC/CR tranny and drop gear noise with REM excited to see how it works on std gears.
The reason I mention tranny is three of the trannys suffered complete failure and were in SPI/MPI cars. To make it more fun they were all AC cars as well. Steve (CTR)
Just a though, I have been rebuilding a bunch of DAM 5626 trannys this year and stripped my fifth this week. To my surprise this one was under a 998. The third motion shaft double ball bearing had fractured ball spacers, worn third motion shaft spigot and lay shaft. And for the fifth time the diff. ball bearing fell off the diff cage. Shift forks and synchros worn but the spider gears and diff. pin not so bad. I have been buying cross pin diffs. and like them for a rebuild. The SPI is getting is getting a Quaife posi as well as REM and Cryo treatment for the gears. I have had good results reducing SC/CR tranny and drop gear noise with REM excited to see how it works on std gears.
The reason I mention tranny is three of the trannys suffered complete failure and were in SPI/MPI cars. To make it more fun they were all AC cars as well. Steve (CTR)
I would love to keep this car mostly stock and find a decent shell I can swap a Honda K20 into. But if my auto decides to go, then I will swap this car. So for now I am not looking for high performance, just a little more pep.
Thanks again everyone.
As for the CAT, I did not put one on mine when I put the SPI in.
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Total posts: 128
Last post: Sep 20, 2022 Member since:Sep 6, 1999
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I had removed the Cat on my JDM Import 97 Mayfair 1275 Automatic and drove it for years with no ill effects. It did get a bit louder but not noticeably so.
if everything seems under control,. then you're not going fast enough
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Total posts: 3749
Last post: Mar 26, 2024 Member since:Jun 23, 2000
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It has been noted multiple times on the UK forums that the CAT does not restrict the exhaust to a great extent and that its removal does not increase power output significantly.
Removing it certainly gets rid of extra connections that can leak.
Removing it certainly gets rid of extra connections that can leak.
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It is for many of the reasons mentioned in this post that I am going to add fuel injection to my Moke, but using a standalone ECU. I will of course document the process, and see how "worth it" it turns out to be.
--trying to set a record for the longest Mini restoration ever!
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To be honest i have only noticed that sensor on 998cc carbed J spec cars and as yours is an spi it will be a 1275cc car, maybe it is a really early one. Be careful if you don't want to damage it as they are flimsy just like a capillary tube on a mechanical temp or oil gauge. You should be able to fasten it to the brake or fuel line with a zip tie for a test run.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Total posts: 169
Last post: Sep 18, 2020 Member since:Jan 28, 2014
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Cars in Garage: 0
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Good to know. Thanks again malsal. Just to be 100% sure, this weekend I am going to unplug it and run the car and drive around to see if anything happens. Might be good knowledge for future JDM Mini owners. I might as well be the guinea pig.
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You don't need it. You can either leave it in, disassemble it, cut it of, or just coil it up and leave it there for a rainy day.
AFAIK it was only used on the Japanese market Mini's for possible catalytic converter overheating issues (probably Japanese regulations) and has nothing to do with the running of the vehicle.
AFAIK it was only used on the Japanese market Mini's for possible catalytic converter overheating issues (probably Japanese regulations) and has nothing to do with the running of the vehicle.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
Found 32 Messages
