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 Posted: Apr 17, 2018 08:39AM
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CA
Keep up the good work, making great progress. I do like your engine test rig too!

Sean Windrum

1996 MGF VVC
1970 1275 GT Racer
66 Austin Countryman
63 997 Cooper (Under Construction)
63 MG 1100

 

 Posted: Apr 15, 2018 05:46AM
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US
Thanks for the update on your progress!

 Posted: Apr 14, 2018 05:09PM
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Well we're still around and making some progress again. Cutting & welding stage now. Lots of fun for dad & son. 

We can now testify to the big difference in fit and quality between Heritage panels and others - namely Magnum..... 

Magnum nose panel doesn't fit at all. Glad we used a Heritage floor otherwise we wouldn't know if anything was straight.

 Posted: Jun 3, 2017 08:10AM
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OK I now see what Jemal was trying to tell us about 3 springs on the throttle. I had only 1 on the linkage between carbs, but each of the throttles needs their own spring otherwise with the slack in the connections the throttle plates won't close all of the way.

Problem solved. Motor starts and runs like a charm. Thanks again.

Time to start bodywork.......

TJ

 Posted: Jun 2, 2017 12:08PM
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Thanks Jemal & Dan

we did have an open hole in the intake which I sorted out and after googling SU carbs i found out the fuel mixture was way too rich. I adjusted that as much as I could and we've got it down to 2900RPM which is an improvement. Still trying to figure out what else i need to do to get idle speed.

We'll keep searching. Glad it runs though! Sounds good too.

TJ

 Posted: Jun 1, 2017 11:36AM
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Hey, how high does that speedo go on the test stand!!


The twin carbs use a triple return spring on the linkage between carbs.  These can be damaged or missing resulting in engine run-away! Simply add a conventional return spring to your test-linkage, and make sure you don't have any big vacuum leaks in that manifold.... Ports for the power brake servo are on most of those manifolds, make sure they're plugged!

 Posted: Jun 1, 2017 11:29AM
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CA
The carbs appear to be HS or H type. Check that the springs and throttle linkage are on the right way around. Remove the air filters and lift the dashpots to see the throttle plates - the springs should be holding them closed and the linkage should pull them open simultaneously. Make sure the linkage connecting the two carb throttle shafts is also secure.

It sure is pretty!

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jun 1, 2017 04:30AM
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Hello there

We got our motor & trans all together, sandblasted & painted subframe and assembled it all. Before we start on the bodywork we really wanted to get our motor running. Just to say we did and provide the motivation to start the next step.

So, here goes: Its all together and set up on a trolley so we can move it around, including gas tank, battery and makeshift dashboard with gauges, ignition & throttle.

And it runs! . Except a little too good.... when it started for the first time, after we got the choke off it just went wide open so we had to kill it quick. Tinkered with the carbs, made sure we had oil in the dash pots, linkage not stuck, springs working fine. Kept tinkering but every time we start it it goes wide open revs and we can't hold it back. Since i don't understand these carbs too well i have to ask; Anybody know why??

 Posted: Dec 28, 2016 02:28PM
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We got the tranny all back together today with new seals and bearings. seems to work smoothly on the bench. We didn't even have any gears left over. Really pleased about that.

 Posted: Dec 27, 2016 05:09PM
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Thanks a ton Deb & Keith

You helped us with parts and tons of good advice. There is just so much you don't know when you haven't done it before and its so nice to find helpful people. 

Thanks to your help we got our diff rebuilt and put back together today with its new 3:21 final drive gear. Now we're well on our way to having our trans and engine rebuilt. Hope to get it running before winter is over. 

TJ


 Posted: Dec 27, 2016 09:55AM
 Edited:  Dec 28, 2016 07:35PM
kd
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CA
Got to meet Terry and Todd and they left with a big bag of used parts to take home and clean up. 

Keith knocked the the diff apart. Of course it's so easy when you have the right tools.

Looking forward to  seeing them at the next  few mini  club meetings.
Debbie

Keith & Deb

Avatar:Turn 1 at the Glen

 Posted: Dec 26, 2016 12:26PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newkid

Well then how about that. Right you are. I didn't think 1st gear wanted to slide that much down the shaft but with a few taps there she goes. Seems that sometimes its about knowing if something is supposed to come off before you start hitting.

Maybe you can help me with another one? I'm changing the bearings in the diff along with the final drive ratios; Tips on how to disassemble from here? I can only see the end of a shaft coming through the axle gear, no sign of a clip, drive pin, or anything that holds it together.

thanks.

First off you will need to remove the pot joints off the output flanges, they should just knock off with a BFH! when they are off you should be able to slide the output flanges off. Then if you look at the centre Diff. cage around the bolt flange you will see a roll-pin knock that through and the centre pin will slide out releasing the planetary gears and out-put shaft.

Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch

 Posted: Dec 25, 2016 12:40PM
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US
Looks like an A+ Metro engine. You are likely to be challenged by fan clearance of the timing cover breather.

 Posted: Dec 25, 2016 09:39AM
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Thanks Deb & Mike

It is a 1275 motor (not 'S') and don't have much info on the pedigree. We got a rebuilt head for it because it was cheaper than re-machining the old one and adding hardened seats and new valves, etc..

Working on a tight budget while still trying not to cut corners on doing it right. Jr. is still only 14 1/2 and we've got some time to get it finished. Its not going to be a racer but very driveable and a lot of fun i think.

Few more pics from last week. Great way to spend the holidays with your kid!

 Posted: Dec 25, 2016 08:15AM
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US
with the 940 head and the 11 stud config on the block, I'm gonna make the assumption you've got a 1275 GT engine. Look in the books for stock specs on that engine if you like.

I'm not a fan of a hogging out an engine bore just to make a a monster. I like to bore it only when needed.

go air in/air out first.

 Posted: Dec 25, 2016 05:27AM
kd
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CA
TJ, 
looking forward to meeting you next week and having you pick up a few Christmas prezzies from our  Mini bits. 
Always willing to help out a fellow mini owner to save another car. 
Minis attract enough attention and have the highest smile per mile ratio of any car out there. 
I always knew that there was a reason to keep so much "junk".
One man's junk is another man's treasure.
Merry Christmas or Happy Hanukkah. Debbie

Keith & Deb

Avatar:Turn 1 at the Glen

 Posted: Dec 24, 2016 08:30PM
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Newkid,

that 940 head is just the ticket. It's a good head as is and can be modded. You might want to set it up with guides for unleaded fuel and cut  triple valve seats.  Not sure if you just want a street car or boy racer but you could have the head cc'd, shaved, and ported and polished.

Nice to see you back here.

Great to have Deb nearby for parts and tech help.

 Posted: Dec 22, 2016 06:21PM
kd
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CA
Francois bought the car that  colour combination and we joked about it being a John Deere .
His nick name became John Deere and one day he showed up with the  leaping deer logos on the rear quarter panels. It's at least 20 years ago now.

Keith & Deb

Avatar:Turn 1 at the Glen

 Posted: Dec 22, 2016 07:29AM
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Thanks Deb

I will email you shortly. Love the picture of the Deere theme Mini. We joked about it but didn't know someone had already done it. Our idea was to put it on the lawn and tuck a yellow mower deck under it for the photo!

TJ

 Posted: Dec 22, 2016 05:52AM
kd
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CA
email me and we can set up a visit where you can pick through our used goodies and get all the missing parts you need for the heating system. [email protected]

Keith & Deb

Avatar:Turn 1 at the Glen

Found 86 Messages

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